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PDF Pattern Men's shirt

Tobol

A straight-cut overshirt with a central button fastening, a turn-down collar on a stand, long sleeves with cuffs, patch pockets with flaps and a double yoke on the back.

Man wearing the Tobol shirt in orange and cream check flannel, shown next to front and back technical sketches
40–54 Sizes included (S–5XL)
2.05–2.60 m Main fabric, by size
12 Pattern pieces
37 Steps to sew it

A roomy overshirt with flap pockets

Straight-cut shirt with central loops and buttons fastening and turn-down collar with a stand. Long sleeves with cuffs.

Patch pockets and flaps on the front. Back with a double yoke.

What you'll need

Suggested materials

  • Flannel, denim, shirting fabrics, corduroy

Also needed

  • Interfacing — 70 cm (27 ½″)
  • Buttons — 11 pcs

Fabric requirement by size, for fabric width 1.50 m (1 5⁄8 yd)

Size 40–42
S–M
44–46
L–XLMOST PICKED
48–50
2XL–3XL
52–54
4XL–5XL
Main fabric 2.05 m
2 ¼ yd
2.25 m
2 ½ yd
2.45 m
2 5⁄8 yd
2.60 m
2 7⁄8 yd

Pattern pieces already include seam allowances. When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5–10% more than required.

Cutting list

Specification

Pattern piecePcs.
Main fabric
1 — Front2
2 — Back with a fold1
3 — Front sleeve2
4 — Sleeve elbow2
5 — Yoke2
6 — Cuff + interfacing2
7 — Top collar with a fold + interfacing1
8 — Under collar with a fold1
9 — Stand with a fold + interfacing2
10 — Pocket2
11 — Top flap + interfacing2
12 — Under flap2
Diagram of the twelve numbered pattern pieces for the Tobol shirt

Pattern pieces — tap to zoom in

Interfacing Top collar (7), stand-up collar (9), cuff (6), top flap (11). Interface: placket for loops on the front piece (1), pocket entrance allowance on the pocket piece (10).
Total ease allowances Chest 36 cm (14″), waist 48 cm (19″), hip 32 cm (13″), shoulder 17 cm (7″).
Cutting layout

Layout of parts on fabric

Main fabric, width 1.80 m (2 yd), shown for sizes 40 and 54

Size 40 (S)
Main fabric cutting layout for the Tobol shirt, size 40

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Size 54 (5XL)
Main fabric cutting layout for the Tobol shirt, size 54

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Step by step

Sewing instructions

Six stages, from preparing the fronts to the finished shirt.

Front preparation

3 steps
  1. 1

    Interface the placket on the front pieces (1) with a strip of interfacing. Iron press the placket to the wrong side along the notches.

  2. 2

    Stitch along the edge of the placket to the width of the allowance. We recommend pinning the checkering with needles to maintain the pattern. Iron press.

  3. 3

    Topstitch along the edge of the placket at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″).

Pockets

10 steps
  1. 1

    Interface the allowances of the pocket entrance (10).

  2. 2

    Iron press the allowances of the upper edge of the pocket (10) at 1 cm (3⁄8″) and 3 cm (1 1⁄8″).

  3. 3

    Stitch the upper corners of the pocket, for this we fold the allowances to the right side and stitch.

  4. 4

    Turn right side out. Iron press the side and lower allowances to the wrong side.

  5. 5

    Secure the ironed seam allowance of the upper edge with a topstitch. Be sure to check the prepared pockets with each other to make sure they are even and symmetrical.

  6. 6

    Place the lower flap (12) on the upper flap (11) face to face and stitch along the side and bottom sides. Cut out the corners. Turn inside out. Iron press.

  7. 7

    Topstitch at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″).

  8. 8

    Fasten the upper edges of the flap along the edges of the seam allowance.

  9. 9

    Mark the location of the patch pockets on the front pieces using the pattern. Pin and topstitch at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the edge. Check the pockets, they should be on the same level.

  10. 10

    Place the flap against the marking line with the corner facing up and stitch it at 0.5 cm (3⁄16″) from the edge. Fold the flap down and secure it. Topstitch at 0.7 cm (¼″) from the stitching seam. Iron press.

Back preparation

4 steps
  1. 1

    Place the top yoke (5) face to face with the back (2), and the under yoke (5) face to the wrong side of the back and sew everything with one line.

  2. 2

    Fold the yokes to the right side and topstitch at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the stitching seam.

  3. 3

    Combine the front pieces with the top yoke with the right sides inward along the shoulder cuts. Place the under yoke on top with the right side down, combine the shoulder cuts and stitch. Turn right side out. Iron press.

  4. 4

    Topstitch along the shoulder seam at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the stitching seam. Iron press.

Collar

6 steps
  1. 1

    Place the under collar (8) on the top (7) one and stitch along the short sides and the line of fall edge. Cut out the corners. Turn it to the right side. Iron press.

  2. 2

    Topstitch along the collar at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the edge.

  3. 3

    Iron the allowance for sewing it into the neck opening at one of the stand-up pieces (9) by 1 cm (3⁄8″).

  4. 4

    Insert the collar between the stand-up pieces so that the stand-up piece with the ironed seam allowance lies face to face with the under collar. Stitch the stand-up pieces. Cut out the allowances on the curves and turn them right side out. Press them.

  5. 5

    Pin and sew the under unironed stand-up piece with the collar into the neck opening from the wrong side of the shirt. Iron press the seam allowance towards the stand-up piece.

  6. 6

    Pin and topstitch the ironed seam allowance of the second stand-up piece from the right side at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the edge, continuing this stitch along the entire perimeter of the stand-up piece. Iron press them.

Sleeve preparation

8 steps
  1. 1

    Iron the seam allowance of the front piece of the sleeve (3) at 1 cm to the wrong side, the elbow piece (4) of the sleeve at 1 cm (3⁄8″) and again at 1 cm (3⁄8″) to the wrong side.

  2. 2

    Stitch the seam allowance on the elbow piece (4) of the sleeve with two parallel lines at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the edge.

  3. 3

    Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve at 1 cm (3⁄8″) below the beginning of the slit, overcast. Hide the overlocker stitch in the seam allowances. Using a needle or hook, thread it into the seam.

  4. 4

    Iron press the seam ease allowances to the front part of the sleeve. Make a double topstitch along the elbow seam to the place of the cut and then fasten it.

  5. 5

    Along the notches, lay and fasten two one-sided folds along the bottom of the sleeve using a sewing machine.

  6. 6

    Sew the sleeve into the open armhole, to do this, fold the sleeve cap with the armhole of the shirt face to face and sew.

  7. 7

    Fold the shirt face inward and sew the sleeve and side seam with one seam.

  8. 8

    Overlock the allowances and iron press them onto the back.

Cuffs and finishing

8 steps
  1. 1

    Iron press the cuff (6) lengthwise and in half with the wrong side inward, and iron one long cut of 1 cm (3⁄8″) to the wrong side.

  2. 2

    Fold it along the fold to the wrong side and stitch the ends of the cuff.

  3. 3

    Fold the front side of the cuff with the wrong side of the sleeve. Stitch, iron press the seam allowances onto the cuffs.

  4. 4

    Place the ironed side of the cuff to the stitching seam, making a stitch along the entire perimeter of the cuff by 0.1 cm (1⁄16″). Turn inside out and iron press.

  5. 5

    Finish the bottom of the shirt with a hem with a closed cut.

  6. 6

    According to the patterns, mark the location of the loops and buttons. Note that the loops are located on the left side, the buttons on the right side. Mark and sew.

  7. 7

    Sew on the buttons, sweep out the loops.

  8. 8

    Iron press the finished shirt.

The shirt is ready!
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