Tallinn — Women’s Blouse – sewing tutorial

Tallinn

A V-neckline blouse with a faced front placket, bust darts, French side seams with gussets at the slits, and a two-piece collar on a stand. Five sizes, thirty steps.

Get the pattern Follow @fabrico.design

XS–XL Sizes included

1.30–1.50 m Main fabric, by size

10 Pattern pieces

30 Steps to sew it

A shirt blouse with a V neckline

The front opens into a V finished with a neckline placket and held flat by a bar tack. Bust darts shape the front, and the side seams are sewn as French seams with a folded gusset let into each side slit.

The sleeve is cut open at the bottom, bound with an edging and pleated into a cuff that fastens with two buttons. A collar on a stand finishes the neckline.

What you'll need

Fabric recommendations

• Shirt fabrics: cotton, linen, muslin
• Crepe fabrics and crash fabrics
• Various blended thin fabrics

Supplies

• Main fabric
• Interfacing
• Buttons for cuffs — 4 pcs.
• Threads

Fabric consumption by size (m / in), for a height of 176 cm (69.29″)

When buying fabric, keep in mind that the material can shrink, so take with a margin of 5–10%.

Specification

Description of tailoring

30 steps in four stages, from the interfaced plackets to the buttons.

Preparation and neckline placket

1. 1

   Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the neckline placket, cuffs, collar and collar stand. We recommend to iron the interfacing to the wrong side of a piece of fabric and then cut out small details like collar and collar stand, cuffs.

2. 2

   Serge the open raw edge of the neckline placket and press the serged line inward. Top stitch the pressed line to fix it.

3. 3

   Pin the darts right sides together. Stitch it. Press the darts up.

4. 4

   Fold and press the neckline placket.

5. 5

   Pin bottom raw edges of the plackets together. Pin the front bodice together with the right side along the center seam. Stitch plackets and front bodice with 1 stitch. Clip corner. Serge the edge. Press it.

6. 6

   Sew the bar tack on the front of the neckline so the placket will not turn on the front.

Bodice, hem and gussets

1. 7

   Pin the front and back together with the right sides along the shoulder edges. Stitch it and serge it. Press seam allowances to the back.

2. 8

   Pin the side edges of the Front and Back right sides together and stitch at 0.5 cm from the edge. Press it.

3. 9

   Trim seam allowances to 0.3 cm.

4. 10

   Pin the front and back together, but now with the WRONG sides and stitch at 0.5 cm from the edge. Press seam allowances to the back.

5. 11

   Clip the bottom hem at the side seams to 0.5 cm. Fold twice along the hem. Stitch it.

6. 12

   Fold the side gusset wrong side together and press it. Serge the side edges. Press it.

7. 13

   Pin the gusset to the side slit. Sew in place.

Sleeves and cuffs

1. 14

   Sleeve. Cut the bottom of the sleeve along the marked line.

2. 15

   Pin the edging right side to the right side the way when at the beginning the edges are together, but at the center the edging is about 0.3 cm up. While stitching you take about 0.2 cm of the edging to reduce bulk. Sew in place. Press seam allowances to the edging.

3. 16

   Fold the open raw of the edging to 0.5 cm and fold one more time. Pin and baste it. Sew in place at 0.1 cm from the edge. Press it.

4. 17

   Pin the edging and stitch the corner.

5. 18

   Fold the sleeve in half right side and pin its side edges. Stitch it and serge the raw edges. Press seam allowances to the back.

6. 19

   Pin the pleat on the sleeve close to the slit. Pin the cuff right side to the right side of the sleeve along the bottom hem. Fold the edging as it is shown. Leave seam allowances along the sides. Sew in place. Press seam allowances to the cuff.

7. 20

   Fold the cuff right side together. Pin side edges of the sleeve. Stitch it.

8. 21

   Turn on the right side and press it.

9. 22

   Fold seam allowance of the cuff inward and pin it. Baste it. Stitch at 0.1–0.2 cm from the edge. Press the cuff.

10. 23

    Pin the sleeve into the armhole, aligning the notches. Sew in place. Serge the raw edges.

Collar and finishing

1. 24

   Pin the collar details together with the right sides along the side and upper edges. Stitch it. Clip corners. Turn on the right side. Press it.

2. 25

   Pin the collar stand to the collar right sides together. Stitch it. Clip outer curved edges. Turn on the right side and press it.

3. 26

   Pin the collar into the neckline to the right side of the garment! Baste it. Side of the collar straight to the side of the placket.

4. 27

   Grade seam allowances. Clip all the bulk.

5. 28

   Fold collar stand seam allowance inward. Baste it. Stitch at 0.1 cm from the edge.

6. 29

   Sew buttonholes and buttons in place.

7. 30

   Press the garment.

Finishing Your blouse is ready!

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