Sevran — Women’s Autumn Coat – sewing tutorial

Sevran

A double-breasted autumn coat with a notched collar and a straight silhouette, fully lined, with welt pockets, a back vent and a removable belt. Seven sizes, seventy-five steps.

Get the pattern Follow @fabrico.design

XXS–XXL Sizes included

2.65–2.75 m Main fabric, by size

23 Pattern pieces

75 Steps to sew it

A fully lined autumn coat

Sevran is a double-breasted coat with a notched collar and a straight silhouette. It has a moderate volume, slightly dropped shoulders and set-in sleeves with elbow darts.

The front panels carry welt pockets and the back has a vent in the centre seam. The coat is fully lined and closes with buttons. A removable belt is held by loops at the side seams. The pattern is drawn for two heights, 170 and 176 cm.

What you'll need

Recommended fabrics

• Medium weight coat fabric for the main fabric
• Lining fabric

Supplies

• Main fabric
• Lining fabric
• Knitted interfacing
• Interfacing tape
• Buttons with a diameter of 2.5 cm (1 in), 4 pcs.

Fabric consumption by size (m / in), layout width 1.5 m (59.05 in)

Coat measurements

All our patterns already contain 1 cm / 0.39 in seam allowances.

Pattern pieces names

Layout of parts on fabric

Main fabric, lining and interfacing, all on a layout width of 1.5 m (59.05 in).

Main fabricWidth of fabric 1.5 m (59.05 in)

Size XXS

Size XXL

Lining fabricWidth of fabric 1.5 m (59.05 in)

Size XXS

Size XXL

InterfacingWidth of fabric 1.5 m (59.05 in)

All sizes

Description of tailoring

75 steps in eight stages, from the interfacing to the belt.

Interfacing and preparation

1. 1

   Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the following details: front, front facing, back, back facing, collar, collar stand, welt.

2. 2

   Iron the interfacing to the Back panels partially, only bodice area. Iron the interfacing to the Front panels partially or totally, according to the fabric you use.

3. 3

   Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the Front to the pocket opening area and buttonholes.

4. 4

   Iron the interfacing tape to the shoulder, side, center edges; armhole; folded line of the lapel.

5. 5

   Iron the interfacing to the bottom hem of the Sleeve, Front, Back. Use pattern.

6. 6

   Iron the interfacing to the coat vent. Use pattern.

7. 7

   Fold the bottom hem of the Front and Back panels, Sleeve. Press it.

8. 8

   Baste stitch the pocket opening, lapel folded line, place of the buttons and buttonholes, folded line of the bottom hem (sleeve, front and back).

Welt pockets

1. 9

   Pocket. Fold the welt in half with the wrong side together and press it. Mark seam allowances.

2. 10

   Pin the welt to the bottom line. Baste it. Sew in place the welt.

3. 11

   Pin the big pocket piece to the welt with the right sides together. Sew in place right along the stitch line from the wrong side.

4. 12

   Mark seam allowances on the pocket facing wrong side.

5. 13

   Pin the pocket facing to the small pocket piece right sides together. Stitch it. Press seam allowances to the pocket piece.

6. 14

   Pin the pocket facing to the upper basted line of the pocket opening. Sew in place.

7. 15

   Slash pocket opening from wrong side and clip diagonally to stitching line at corners.

8. 16

   Fold pocket pieces to the wrong side.

9. 17

   Diagonally baste the welt and pocket facing. Press the pocket through the same piece of fabric as the garment.

10. 18

    Trim the front panel seam allowances to reduce bulk.

11. 19

    Pin the triangle, the welt and pocket facing together. Stitch it all together.

12. 20

    Pin pocket edges together with the right sides and stitch it. Press.

Body and front facing

1. 21

   Pin the back details together along the center edges with the right sides. Stitch it up to the mark. Press seam allowances open.

2. 22

   Pin the Front and Back along the shoulder edges with the right sides together. Stitch it. Press seam allowances open.

3. 23

   Pin the Front and Back along the side seam with the right sides together. Sew in place. Press seam allowances open.

4. 24

   Pin the Front facing to the Front with the right sides together. Stitch, not reaching 1 cm (0.39 in) to the bottom hem. Press seam allowances open.

5. 25

   Clip seam allowances to 0.2 cm (0.08 in) to the stitching line at the notch and the corner.

6. 26

   Grade seam allowances to 0.3 cm (0.12 in) and 0.5 cm (0.2 in). Clip corners.

Collar

1. 27

   Collar. Pin the collar stand with the rounded edges to the bottom edge of the collar detail. Right sides together. Align the notches. Sew in place. Press seam allowances open.

2. 28

   Pin the collar details along the upper and side edges with the right sides together. Sew in place. Press seam allowances open.

3. 29

   Grade seam allowances to 0.3 cm (0.12 in) and 0.5 cm (0.2 in) by trimming.

4. 30

   Turn the collar to the right side. Pin its bottom edges together. Diagonally baste along the upper edge.

5. 31

   Press through the piece of similar fabric.

6. 32

   Pin inner collar into the garment neckline, aligning the notches, right sides together. Pin outer collar into the neckline, leaving 3 cm (1.18 in) unstitched to the end of the Front facing. Sew in place.

7. 33

   Clip corners. Press seam allowances open. Clip seam allowances along the rounded edge.

8. 34

   Trim seam allowances.

9. 35

   Turn the garment to the right side. Baste stitch along the edge of the front panel.

10. 36

    From the inside, catch stitch the front and front facing together.

Sleeves

1. 37

   Sleeve. Mark dart lines on the wrong side of the sleeve. Pin the pleat. Stitch it.

2. 38

   Trim seam allowances up to 0.3 cm (0.12 in). Press seam allowances open.

3. 39

   Fold the sleeve in half right side together. Pin its side edges. Stitch it. Press seam allowances open.

4. 40

   Fold the bottom hem of the sleeve and press.

5. 41

   Pin the sleeve into the armhole with the right sides together, aligning the notches.

6. 42

   Baste the sleeve into the armhole if needed. Sew in place. Press seam allowances open.

7. 43

   Clip seam allowances along the rounded edge.

Lining

1. 44

   Lining. Pin the back details together with the right sides along the center-seam up to the notch. Stitch it. Press seam allowances.

2. 45

   Pin the pleat to the center-seam on the back.

3. 46

   Pin the back facing to the back lining right sides together. Align the notches. Sew in place. Press seam allowances to the lining.

4. 47

   Pin the Front lining and Back lining along side edges right side together. Stitch it. Press seam allowances to the Back.

5. 48

   Fold the pleat on the Front lining. Pin the Front lining to the Front facing right sides together. Align the notches. Stitch it. Press seam allowances to the lining.

6. 49

   Pin the Front lining and Back lining along the shoulder edges right sides together. Stitch it. Press seam allowances open.

7. 50

   Pin the dart on the wrong side of the lining Sleeve. Stitch it. Press seam allowances down.

8. 51

   Fold the sleeve in half and pin its side edges with the right side. Stitch it. Press seam allowances to the back.

9. 52

   Pin the sleeve into the armhole of the lining. Right sides together. Align the notches. Sew in place.

10. 53

    Fold the bottom of the sleeve from the main fabric. Pin the sleeve of the main fabric to the lining sleeve with the right sides together. Stitch it.

11. 54

    Make a catch stitch along the folded bottom hem of the sleeve.

12. 55

    Pin the collar to the back facing right sides together. Sew in place.

13. 56

    Press seam allowances open.

14. 57

    Connect 2 collars along the neckline and make a catch stitch.

Back vent and closing the lining

1. 58

   Vent. Pin the bottom hem of the garment to the bottom hem of the lining right sides together. Stitch it.

2. 59

   Press seam allowances of the front facing open. The rest of the seam allowances press to the lining.

3. 60

   Pin the raw edges of the Front and Front facing at the bottom and stitch it. Clip corners. Press it.

4. 61

   Pin the left side edges of the VENT of the garment to the lining with the right sides together. Stitch it.

5. 62

   Pin the corner of the vent right sides together. Stitch it. Clip seam allowances at the corner. Press seam allowances open.

6. 63

   Pin the right side edges of the Vent of the garment and lining together with the right sides. Stitch it. Press it. Clip corners.

7. 64

   Baste the shoulder seam allowances of the garment and lining.

8. 65

   Turn the garment to the right side. Place the coat on the table with lining right side down, align the vent edges and pin. Turn lining right side up.

9. 66

   Clip the seam allowances of the right vent so you can line up the vent allowances to the left.

10. 67

    Align the seam allowances of the vent. Pin it. Pin the upper edge of the lining vent. Pin the left back lining so it won’t be sewn in. Stitch from the center-seam to the end on the upper edge of the vent.

11. 68

    Use an invisible stitch to sew the left side of the lining vent along the stitching line.

12. 69

    Use an invisible stitch to close the turning-out gap.

Buttons, lapel and belt

1. 70

   Mark the place of the buttons and buttonholes. Sew buttonholes. Sew buttons in place.

2. 71

   Fold the lapel along the line and press using the piece of fabric of the garment.

3. 72

   Belt. Pin the belt details together along the short edges with the right sides. Stitch it. Press seam allowances open.

4. 73

   Fold the belt in half with the right sides and pin its side and long edges, leaving a turning-out gap. Stitch it. Clip corners.

5. 74

   Turn the belt to the right side and press it.

6. 75

   Use an invisible stitch to close the turning-out gap.

Finishing Your coat is ready!

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