Orleans — Women’s Sweatshirt – sewing tutorial

Orleans

A sweatshirt with a zippered collar, ribbed cuffs and a drawstring hem, sewn from jersey knit. Eleven sizes, twenty-two steps.

Get the pattern Follow @fabrico.design

XXS–6XL Sizes included

1.00–1.30 m Main fabric, by size

6 Pattern pieces

22 Steps to sew it

A sweatshirt with a zippered collar

Orleans is a sweatshirt with a collar that closes with a zipper. The sleeves end in ribbed cuffs, and the hem is gathered with a cord that runs through two eyelets and is held by a cord lock.

The pattern has six pieces and comes in eleven sizes, XXS to 6XL (EU 34 to 54), for a height of 170 cm (66.9 in). If you prefer, the bottom of the sweatshirt can be made with an elastic and a drawstring or with ribbing: the pattern includes a ribbed bottom cuff.

What you'll need

Recommended fabrics

• Jersey knit
• Ribbing for the cuffs
• Ribbing or an elastic band with a drawstring for the bottom of the sweatshirt
• Fabric can shrink, so buy it with a margin of 5-10%

Supplies

• Main fabric
• Ribbing for the cuffs
• Interfacing for knitwear: a 5 × 25 cm strip (2 × 9.8 in) or interfacing tape
• Zipper 25 cm (9.84 in)
• Hat elastic, 1.5 m (59.05 in)
• Eyelets, 2 pcs.
• Cord lock (regulator), 1 pc.

Fabric consumption by size (m / in), fabric width 1.4 m (55.1 in), height 170 cm (66.9 in)

Sweatshirt measurements

Woman’s height: 170 cm (66.9 in)

All our patterns already contain 1 cm / 0.39 in seam allowances.

Pattern pieces names

Layout of parts on fabric

Main fabric in the smallest, middle and largest size, and the cuff fabric.

Main fabricLayout width 1.4 m (55.1 in)

Size XXS (34)

Size XL (44)

Size 6XL (54)

Cuff fabricLayout width 1.4 m (55.1 in)

Cuffs

Description of tailoring

22 steps in five stages, from the shoulder seams to the hem.

Body and sleeves

1. 1

   Fuse the interfacing tape to the shoulder edges or use silicone tape for sewing. Pin the Front and Back with the right sides together along the shoulder edge. Serge. Press the allowances to the back.

2. 2

   Insert the sleeve into the open armhole and pin, aligning the notches. Serge. Press allowances to the sleeve.

3. 3

   Fold the sleeve in half with the right side and pin it. Pin the Front and Back together with the right sides along the side edges. Serge it all together. Press allowances to the back.

Collar and zipper

1. 4

   Iron the interfacing to the place of zipper to the Front’s and collar’s wrong sides.

2. 5

   Mark the lines on the Front. Stitch along these lines.

3. 6

   Pin the collar to the neckline with the right sides together, aligning the notches. Stitch using sewing machine. Press the allowances along the neckline, press allowances open by the zipper (3-4 cm / 1.18-1.57 in).

4. 7

   Pin the half of the zipper to the collar and the Front (zipper’s edge to the center of the frame) with the right sides together. Put the neckline allowances open. Whip stitch. Sew the zipper in place using Zipper foot. Press.

5. 8

   Zip up and mark the neckline on the other zipper half. Unzip.

6. 9

   Pin the other zipper half to the collar and the Front, aligning the markings. Whip stitch. Sew in place.

7. 10

   Zip up and check your good work. Then slash the opening by cutting along the middle, then clip diagonally to the corners.

8. 11

   Turn the zipper to the wrong side. Clip neckline allowances at the zipper stitch.

Finishing the collar

1. 12

   The other collar half fold over the zipper with the right sides and pin. Fold the collar’s allowance. Turn the neckline allowances inside the collar. Stitch in and then press.

2. 13

   Pin the collar along the long edge with the right sides inward. Start from the zipper to the middle of the back. Baste it. Stitch.

3. 14

   Do the same on the side of the collar. Leave a turn out hole. Stitch. Turn to the right side. Press it.

4. 15

   Close the hole with an invisible stitch.

5. 16

   Top stitch the zipper. Press.

Cuffs

1. 17

   Pin the cuff along the short edge with the right side and stitch on sewing machine. Press the allowances open. Clip the corners and the allowances at the folding.

2. 18

   Fold the cuff with the wrong side. Pin to the sleeve hem with the right side together. Serge it. Press the seam and press allowances to the sleeve.

Hem and finishing

1. 19

   Serge the bottom hem. Iron the interfacing to the grommet’s place.

2. 20

   Fold the bottom hem to 3 cm and press. Thread the cord through the grommets and the cord lock. Knot the cord. Pin the cord to the folding line.

3. 21

   Topstitch the folded hem using Twin needle.

4. 22

   Make the final ironing of the garment.

Finishing Your sweatshirt is ready!

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