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PDF Pattern Teen Girl Coat

Liverpool

A double-breasted coat with a straight, above-the-knee cut, wide lapels, dropped shoulders, and patch pockets. Its standout feature is a removable hooded shirtfront, zipped in at both sides, that layers under the collar for extra warmth.

Mustard yellow double-breasted wool coat with a removable clay-pink hooded shirtfront insert, shown next to front and back technical sketches of the coat, hood, and shirtfront
7 – 14 yrs Sizes included
1.3–2.0 m Main fabric, by size
1.5 m Fabric width
3 Zippers required

A double-breasted coat with a removable hood

This double-breasted coat sits straight, just above the knee, with a turn-down collar, wide lapels, dropped shoulders, and patch pockets on the front. It's fully lined, with a vent in the center back seam.

A removable hooded shirtfront, made from dense French terry, zips in at both sides — easy to unfasten and fasten whenever the layer isn't needed.

Sized from 7 to 14 years (122–164 cm height).

What you'll need

Suggested fabrics

Coat fabric for the main pieces. For the hood and shirtfront, a dense French terry. For lining the hood and shirtfront, a thin knitted fabric like the one used for T-shirts.

Also needed

  • Interfacing – 50 cm (19 ⅝″)
  • Fusible bias tape – 1.00 m (1 ⅛ yd)
  • Zippers – 3 pcs., length by size (see table below)
  • Buttons, 1 cm (⅜″) – 3 pcs. (to fasten the shirtfront)
  • Buttons, 2.5 cm (1″) – 4 pcs. (for the coat)

Zipper lengths by size — tap a size to see it highlighted

Zipper 122
7 y
128
8 y
134
9 y
140
10 yMOST PICKED
146
11 y
152
12 y
158
13 y
164
14 y
Center front 40 cm
15¾″
40 cm
15¾″
45 cm
17¾″
45 cm
17¾″
45 cm
17¾″
50 cm
19⅝″
50 cm
19⅝″
50 cm
19⅝″
Each side 35 cm
13¾″
35 cm
13¾″
40 cm
15¾″
40 cm
15¾″
40 cm
15¾″
45 cm
17¾″
45 cm
17¾″
45 cm
17¾″

Pattern pieces already include 1 cm (⅜″) seam allowances.

Before you cut

Fabric consumption

Tap a size to see it highlighted across the table.

Height / Age
width 1.5 m / 59.05″
122 cm
7 y
128 cm
8 y
134 cm
9 y
140 cm
10 yMOST PICKED
146 cm
11 y
152 cm
12 y
158 cm
13 y
164 cm
14 y
Main fabric 1.30 m
1⅜ yd
1.40 m
1½ yd
1.50 m
1⅝ yd
1.60 m
1¾ yd
1.70 m
1⅞ yd
1.80 m
2 yd
1.90 m
2⅛ yd
2.00 m
2¼ yd
Lining fabric 0.90 m
1 yd
0.95 m
1 yd
1.00 m
1⅛ yd
1.05 m
1⅛ yd
1.10 m
1¼ yd
1.15 m
1¼ yd
1.20 m
1⅜ yd
1.25 m
1⅜ yd
French terry 0.55 m
⅝ yd
0.55 m
⅝ yd
0.60 m
⅝ yd
0.60 m
⅝ yd
0.65 m
¾ yd
0.65 m
¾ yd
0.70 m
¾ yd
0.70 m
¾ yd
Knitted fabric 0.55 m
⅝ yd
0.55 m
⅝ yd
0.60 m
⅝ yd
0.60 m
⅝ yd
0.65 m
¾ yd
0.65 m
¾ yd
0.70 m
¾ yd
0.70 m
¾ yd

When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5–10% more than required. All patterns already include seam allowances.

Cutting list

Specification

Pattern piecePcs.
Main fabric
1 — Back left1
2 — Back right1
3 — Front2
4 — Sleeve2
5 — Front facing2
6 — Top collar1
7 — Under collar1
8 — Back facing1
9 — Pocket2
Lining
10 — Pocket lining2
11 — Flat buttons on the neckline1
12 — Back right1
13 — Back left1
14 — Front2
15 — Sleeve2
16 — Placket for inside zipper2
French terry
17 — Front – shirtfront2
18 — Top hood center1
19 — Top hood side2
Thin knitted fabric
20 — Shirtfront lining2
21 — Inside hood center1
22 — Inside hood side2
Interfacing
23 — Back vent1
24 — Back hem2
25 — Front hem2
26 — Sleeve hem2
27 — Pocket hem2

Pattern pieces already include seam allowances.

Pattern pieces

All 27 pieces at a glance

Numbered to match the specification above

Twenty-seven numbered pattern pieces for the Liverpool coat, including back, front, sleeve, facing, collar, pocket, hood, and interfacing pieces

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Interfacing: front facing, collar pieces, and back facing; sleeve hem, front and back hem, back vent, and pocket upper cuts, using the additional pattern pieces; the buttonhole areas on the side hood and top hood center; the zipper cuts on the shirtfront; the shoulder cuts of the back. Straighten armhole cuts on the front and back with bias-cut fusible stay tape.
Cutting layout

Layout of pieces on fabric

Smallest and largest size shown, at a fabric width of 1.5 m (59.05″)

Main fabric
Main fabric cutting layout for size 122, 7 years

Size 122 (7 y)

Main fabric cutting layout for size 164, 14 years

Size 164 (14 y)

Lining
Lining fabric cutting layout for size 122, 7 years

Size 122 (7 y)

Lining fabric cutting layout for size 164, 14 years

Size 164 (14 y)

French terry
French terry cutting layout for size 122, 7 years

Size 122 (7 y)

French terry cutting layout for size 164, 14 years

Size 164 (14 y)

Thin knitted fabric
Thin knitted fabric cutting layout for size 122, 7 years

Size 122 (7 y)

Thin knitted fabric cutting layout for size 164, 14 years

Size 164 (14 y)

Tap any diagram to zoom in.

Step by step

Sewing instructions

Shirtfront

18 steps
  1. 1

    Interface the areas of the buttonholes and sew the buttonholes on the central and side parts of the hood made of the main fabric. Press.

  2. 2

    Pin together the side and central parts of the hood from the main fabric right sides together, following the notches. Overlock the sides. Press the seam and seam allowances to the sides.

  3. 3

    Pin together the side and central parts of the hood from the lining fabric right sides together, following the notches. Overlock the sides. Press the seam and allowances towards the center.

  4. 4

    Pin the hoods from the main and lining fabric along the outer cut, following the notches. Overlock them together. Press the seam. Flip the hood right side out, fold the seam edgewise, and press it so a small edge of the main hood goes onto the lining hood.

  5. 5

    Pin together the shoulder cuts of the front pieces from the main and lining fabrics, right sides together. Sew on an overlocker/serger. Press the seam allowances.

  6. 6

    Pin the hood from the main fabric and the lining fabric right sides together along the neckline. Sew the section going from one shoulder notch to the other. Press the seam.

  7. 7

    Pin the front piece of the shirtfront made of the main fabric to the hood made of the main fabric along the neckline. Stitch until you reach the notch on the shoulder seam. Press the allowances.

  8. 8

    Sew the lining fabric front piece to the lining fabric hood in the same way. Press allowances. Flip everything right side out.

  9. 9

    Pin the zipper to the shirtfront, right sides together. Baste if necessary. Pin the lining shirtfront to the wrong side of the zipper and baste if necessary. Sew the zipper using a zipper foot, overcasting the bottom edge of the shirtfront. Cut out the corners, flip right side out, and press.

  10. 10

    Fasten the zipper. Transfer the neckline mark to the second part of the zipper.

  11. 11

    Pin the second part of the zipper to the shirtfront made of the main fabric, aligning the neckline and the marking. Baste if necessary. Pin the lining shirtfront to the wrong side of the zipper and baste if necessary. Sew the zipper using a zipper foot. Flip the shirtfront right side out, checking everything is stitched correctly. Press.

  12. 12

    Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3⁄16″) from the zipper stitching along the entire length of the zipper.

  13. 13

    Topstitch at 2 cm (¾″) along the hood.

  14. 14

    Place the shirtfront on the table with the zippers at the sides. Decide which side of the zipper goes to which side of the shirtfront.

  15. 15

    Pin half of the zipper to the front of the shirtfront made of the main fabric, matching right sides. Stitch.

  16. 16

    Pin the lining front piece to the wrong side of the zipper, wrapping the lining fabric around the zipper from the top edge first. Stitch at the top to the maximum possible length. Flip right side out.

  17. 17

    In the same way, wrap the zipper with lining fabric from the bottom edge to the maximum possible length. Stitch. Cut out the corners. Flip right side out. Press.

  18. 18

    Sew the hole closed using hand stitches. Press.

Pockets

10 steps
  1. 19

    Fold the top edge of the pocket along the notches and press.

  2. 20

    Pin the lining to the pocket along the top edge with right sides inside. Stitch, leaving a 3 cm (1⅛″) unstitched opening in the middle.

  3. 21

    Fold the top edge of the pocket from the main fabric along the notch line. Pin the lining to the pocket all the way around. Sew.

  4. 22

    Cut out the corners and allowances on the curves of the pocket.

  5. 23

    Flip the pocket right side out and press.

  6. 24

    Sew the unstitched hole using hand stitches.

  7. 25

    Mark the location of the pocket on the front piece. Pin the pocket along the chalk lines.

  8. 26

    Sew the pocket at a distance of 0.5 cm (3⁄16″) from the edge. Press.

  9. 27

    Interface the hem at the bottom of the front and press the bottom of the front.

  10. 28

    Reinforce the armhole cuts with fusible tape.

Front & Back Assembling

6 steps
  1. 29

    Strengthen the armholes with fusible tape, interface the shoulder seams with a strip of interfacing, and interface the vent and hem of the bottom back. Press the hem at the bottom.

  2. 30

    Pin the back pieces along the central cut with right sides facing inward. Stitch moving to the vent, ending the stitching at 1 cm (⅜″) from the cut of the vent.

  3. 31

    Press the allowances to the beginning of the vent. Cut the vent allowance in the corner.

  4. 32

    Stitch the corner of the upper vent, leaving 1 cm (⅜″) unstitched from the edge of the allowance.

  5. 33

    Flip the seam allowances to the right side and press. Leave the other side unstitched for now.

  6. 34

    Sew the side and shoulder seams. Press the allowances.

Sleeves

3 steps
  1. 35

    Interface the hem of the bottom of the sleeves and press the seam allowance to the wrong side.

  2. 36

    Fold the sleeves right sides inward and stitch using a sewing machine. Press the allowances.

  3. 37

    Place the sleeves into the armholes, aligning the notches, and pin in place. Stitch in evenly, easing the fit. Press the allowances onto the sleeves.

Lining

15 steps
  1. 38

    Pin half of the zipper from the shirtfront to the lining piece and stitch. Attention: check the sides are aligned correctly — the zipper half on the left front of the shirtfront must match the zipper half on the left hem.

  2. 39

    Fold the zipper placket in half and press it. Stitch the bottom short edge. Flip to the right side and press.

  3. 40

    Pin the placket over the zipper and topstitch.

  4. 41

    Sew the chest fold onto the front part of the lining. Place the hem with the front lining piece, right sides together, pin and stitch. Press the seam onto the lining.

  5. 42

    Pin the back pieces from the lining fabric along the central cut with right sides facing inward. Stitch until the notch. Press the allowances. Pin the fold to the center of the back.

  6. 43

    Pin the back facing to the back piece, right sides together. Stitch. Press the seam allowances to the back side.

  7. 44

    Pin the front pieces and back from the lining fabric along the shoulder cuts with right sides facing inward. Stitch. Press the allowances.

  8. 45

    Pin the side cuts of the front and back with the right sides facing inward. Stitch. Press the seam allowances towards the back.

  9. 46

    Stitch the bottom edge of the sleeve lining. Place the sleeve with the right side facing inward, pin and stitch, leaving an unstitched hole in the left sleeve to flip the coat inside out. Press the seam towards the back of the sleeve.

  10. 47

    Pin the sleeve right sides into the armhole of the lining. Sew in. Press the allowances onto the sleeves.

  11. 48

    Fold the flat button piece from the lining fabric in half and stitch along the long edge. Flip right side out. Press. Cut into three equal parts and press each part in half.

  12. 49

    Place and pin these pieces for flat buttons to the back neck facing. Attention: use the buttonhole placement on the pattern pieces as your guide.

  13. 50

    Place the lining right sides together with the coat and pin along the lapels. Hem the facing, not reaching 1 cm (⅜″) from the bottom of the facing.

  14. 51

    Notch an allowance of up to 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) into the seam along the upper edge, where the mark is located. Cut out the corners.

  15. 52

    Turn the lapels to the right side of the coat and press them flat.

Collar

5 steps
  1. 53

    Place the top collar and under collar right sides inward, pin, and sew at 0.7 cm (¼″) from the edge, stopping 1 cm (⅜″) from the cut of the collar. Cut out the corners, flip the collar right side out, and topstitch along the under collar at 0.2 cm (1⁄16″). Press, forming a 0.1–0.2 cm (1⁄16″) edge from the top collar.

  2. 54

    Pin the collar into the neck of the coat, aligning the top collar with the lining and the under collar with the neck of the coat. Follow the notches.

  3. 55

    Notch the corners of the front pieces so you can lay out the neckline in a line.

  4. 56

    Sew first the top collar, then the under collar.

  5. 57

    Press the seams flat and join the two collars using hand stitches or a sewing machine.

Back Vent

15 steps
  1. 58

    Stitch the rounded area to the corner to overcast the vent in the back lining along the middle seam, and cut that corner. Pin the lining and vent together along the vertical cut on the left back piece. Stitch, stopping at 1 cm (⅜″) from the bottom of the lining.

  2. 59

    Pin the lining to the vertical seam allowance on the right side of the back and stitch until the notch on the hem of the bottom, leaving a 1 cm (⅜″) lining allowance for stitching the bottom.

  3. 60

    Pin the top edges of the vent. Press the vent.

  4. 61

    Pin the bottom edges of the coat and lining right sides together, aligning the seams and notches, and stitch. Press the seam of the facing flat.

  5. 62

    Overcast the remaining part of the lapel below with the hem. Trim the corners.

  6. 63

    Stitch the remaining section in the right back, left after stitching the lining to the bottom of the coat. Cut out a corner.

  7. 64

    Pin the lining and coat together along the hem allowance at the seams.

  8. 65

    Press the bottom of the lining and the seams of the vent.

  9. 66

    Stitch the shoulder seams of the lining and the coat.

  10. 67

    Stitch the lining and the coat in the armhole area.

  11. 68

    Stitch the bottom of the sleeve with the lining, matching the seams and notches, and secure along the seams.

  12. 69

    Flip the coat to the right side and stitch the opening in the sleeve with an allowance of 0.1 cm (1⁄16″). Press the lining along the bottom of the coat, and press the vent and lining in the sleeves.

  13. 70

    Place the coat on a flat surface, back side up. Align the vent. Topstitch all the way through and diagonally along the top edge of the vent.

  14. 71

    Sew the buttonholes and sew on the buttons.

  15. 72

    Give the coat a final press.

The coat is ready!
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