Greenland

Apply horizontal marking lines on the main pieces of the front (2), back (1) and sleeve (3) using chalk.

Pin the insulation on the inside along the entire perimeter of the main pieces, leaving allowances of at least 2 cm (13/16″).

Stitch the main pieces onto the insulation, stepping back from the edge of the piece by 0.5 cm (3/16″). Make the maximum stitch width. Important: when making horizontal lines, do not forget to make fastenings at the beginning and end of the stitching, so the stitches stay intact in wear.

Cut excess insulation off.

Pin the pocket pieces (6) and their lining (16) along the entire perimeter with the right sides inward.

Stitch the pocket along four sides, leaving open the side of the pocket that will go into the zipper.

Cut out the allowances on the fleece parts, turn the pockets to the front side, carefully straightening the corners.

Make 2 parallel top stitches at 0.1 cm (1/16″) and 0.5 cm (3/16″) from the side of the pocket entrance.

Mark the location of the pocket using the pattern of the front piece. Pin the pocket along the chalk lines, aligning the control points and making an edging from the main fabric so the lining is not visible.

Make two parallel stitches at 0.1 cm (1/16″) and 0.5 cm (3/16″) along the pocket outline. Do the same with the second pocket and stitch it onto the front part (2).

Pin and stitch the shoulder edges of the front (2) and back (1) pieces to a seam width of 1 cm (3/8″). Evaluate the result for any excessive fit or stretched areas.

Pin the sleeves (3) into the open armholes, aligning all the notches. Be careful not to mix up the right and left sleeves. Sew in the sleeve to a seam width of 1 cm (3/8″) and check that it is evenly set.

Turn the garment inside out and pin the sleeves and side edges, aligning the stitch lines. Stitch with one line at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge.

Pin the hood center (5) with the side pieces (4), aligning all the notches. Connect the parts at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge, sewing along the central part. Check the seams on all sides for folds and distortions.

Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16″) from the edge, directing the seam allowances to the central part.

Fold the loop allowances (8) to the wrong side end-to-end, fold the piece in half and sew a connecting seam at 0.1 cm (1/16″) from the edge.

Attach the loop (8) to the right side of the back neck. First mark auxiliary lines at 1.5 cm (5/8″) from the central notch. Pin the loop piece and sew it on.

Pin the hood to the jacket neck with the right sides facing inward, aligning all the notches. Sew a connecting seam at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge, sewing from the hood side.

Prepare the zipper guard (7). Stitch along the rounded part at 0.7 cm (5/16″) from the edge. Cut off the allowance along the rounding, leaving 0.3 cm (1/8″). Turn inside out, evenly unfolding the allowance with your hands.

Open the zipper and pin it to the central cuts of the front of the jacket.

Note that the zipper does not reach the bottom of the jacket — there is an additional notch on the patterns for the end of the zipper. Place the guard on the upper end of the zipper, bending the prepared part around the upper right part of the zipper. Check that the zipper is evenly distributed over the product. If you are inserting a zipper for the first time, baste it before topstitching to avoid skewing. Close the zipper and make sure that the stitching and pocket lines meet on both sides.

Topstitch and sew along the zipper. Close the zipper and check that the stitching and pocket seams match. Remove the basting stitches.

Mark the location of the pocket.

Cut out 1 piece of insulation along the welt piece (12). Divide the insulation detail into 2 parts. Pin along the contour with the welt pieces and connect at 0.2 cm (1/16″) from the edge along the entire contour. Cut off excess padding.

Mark the fold line along the length of the piece. Stitch along the marked line.

Fold the welt in half and mark a line from the fold equal to the width of the welt in its finished form, 3 cm (1 3/16″). Stitch along the marked line.

Pin the welt piece to the longitudinal chalk line of the pocket on the front pieces (9) and (10), the one closer to the central cut. Direct the cuts of the welt to the side seam. The stitch connecting the welt should coincide with the longitudinal chalk line. Mark transverse lines on the welt for the beginning and end of the stitch. Check that the line on the welt and the pocket location converge, then stitch exactly on the line without going beyond the pocket boundaries.

Pin the pocket facing (13) to the bottom pocket bag (15) face to face. Stitch 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge. If the fabric is suitable for pressing, press the allowances onto the pocket bag.

Topstitch along the pocket bag at 0.1 cm (1/16″) from the seam joining the facing to the bottom pocket bag. Direct the seam allowances towards the pocket bag.

Stitch the pocket bag with the facing to the longitudinal chalk line of the pocket, placing the facing face to face with the front. Mark the stitching line 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge on the wrong side of the facing. The stitching lines of the welt and the pocket facing should be parallel.

Stitch the top pocket bag (14). Pin the pocket bag to the welt allowance (12) and stitch, hitting exactly the seam where the welt is attached.

For convenience, fold back the seam allowances and mark the cut line of the pocket entrance. Draw a chalk line between the stitching lines of the welt and the facing. Not reaching 2 cm (13/16″) to the end of the lines, draw lines from the centre to the corners. Cut the pocket entrance along the marked lines, stopping 0.1–0.2 cm (1/16″) short of the end points.

Turn the pocket bag inside out, carefully straightening the ends of the welt. Fold back the main piece and secure the ends of the welt with a stitch along the pocket frame line.

At the ends of the welt and the pocket entrance, topstitch at 0.1 cm (1/16″) from the seam.

Topstitch along the remaining side at 0.1 cm (1/16″) from the seam, folding back the pocket bag.

Fold the front back and pin the pocket bag along the entire perimeter. Sew the welts, starting from one corner of the frame and finishing in the opposite corner.

Install the grommets, first interfacing the location of the grommets on the hood piece (4).

Prepare the hood. Pin the hood center (5) with the side pieces (4), aligning all the notches. Connect the parts at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge, sewing along the central piece. Cut the seam allowances at the rounding points and check the seams for folds and distortions.

Turn the hood inside out, direct the seam allowances towards the central piece and topstitch.

Assemble the second part of the jacket. Pin the front and back pieces along the shoulder cuts and stitch at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge.

Topstitch along the shoulder seams, directing the seam allowances towards the back.

Sew the sleeves into the open armhole. Pin the sleeves in, aligning all the notches. Stitch at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge.

Cut the seam allowances along the sleeve cap.

Topstitch 0.1 cm (1/16″) from the seam on the front side, directing the seam allowances towards the product.

Turn the product inside out and pin the sleeves and side cuts. Stitch at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge.

Turn it right side out and mark the location of the buttons. Place an additional layer of jacket fabric and padding under the button.

Pin the hood to the neck of the jacket with the right sides facing inward, aligning all the notches. Stitch at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge, not reaching 1 cm (3/8″) to the edge of the hood on the left side. Sew along the side of the hood.

Cut out the facing placket from padding, leaving a 1.5 cm (9/16″) allowance. Sew the facing (11) onto the padding along the entire perimeter at 0.5 cm (3/16″) from the edge. Cut off the excess padding.

Pin the facing placket (11) onto the left front (9) and sew at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge. Cut out the seam allowance at the corners and turn to the right side.

Turn the bottom layer of the jacket inside out. Pin the placket to the second side of the jacket along the zipper stitching line and connect on a sewing machine. Do the same with the second side of the jacket. Leave an unstitched opening to turn the jacket inside out later.

Connect the 2 layers of the jacket along the cuts of the hood. Pin and stitch at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge.

Turn the jacket inside out. Straighten the hood facing seam into a split and pin. Apply a marking line for topstitching at 2.5 cm (1″) from the edge of the hood. Stitch along the marked line to form the drawstring casing. Check the stitch for distortions.

Pull the hat elastic through the grommets and put on the adjusters. Secure the end of the elastic with a stitch in the seam where the hood is stitched to the front.

Turn the jacket inside out. Connect the 2 layers along the neck allowances. Pin the layers together and stitch, trying to get into the seam where the hood is sewn into the neck.

Connect the lower edges of the sleeves. Put one sleeve into the other, pin them together and sew at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge.

Cut out a piece from the fabric scraps. Fold it in half and stitch in the middle. Cut off 2 strips of 4 cm (1 9/16″) each. Pin along the seam allowance under the armhole line and secure on a sewing machine.

Pin the garment along the bottom from the wrong side. Sew at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge.

Turn the jacket inside out through the unstitched opening. Carefully straighten all corners of the jacket and close the unstitched opening with hand stitches or on a sewing machine.

Pin the seams in the split on the sleeves and stitch at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge.

Straighten the seams in the split on the placket. Pin them and stitch over the zipper on a sewing machine.

Straighten the seams in the split along the bottom of the jacket and pin them. Stitch at 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge, not reaching 1 cm (3/8″) to the button on the left side and starting from the placket on the right.

Install the upper part of the button on the other side of the jacket. Make a chalk line, focusing on the previous side.

If the fabric is suitable for pressing, press the ready garment.