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PDF Pattern Men's puffer vest

Bern

A lined puffer vest with a central zipper and a hood, with jetted pockets at the front. The pattern also includes collar pieces, so the same vest can be made without the hood.

Man wearing the Bern puffer vest in khaki with the hood up, shown next to front and back technical sketches
40–54 Sizes included (S–5XL)
2 Versions: hood or collar
65–70 cm Separating zipper, by size
15 Pattern pieces

A puffer vest, hooded or collared

A trendy men's puffer vest featuring a central zipper closure and a hood. The front includes convenient jetted pockets with flaps. This lined vest is suitable for cooler weather and the fall season.

The pattern includes pieces for both a top and bottom collar, offering an alternative to the hood for a more classic wardrobe option.

What you'll need

Suggested materials

  • Any jacket fabrics. You can either purchase pre-quilted fabric or quilt the fabric yourself
  • Lining fabric — see the table below for quantities
  • Fabric width used throughout this tutorial — 150 cm (59.1″)

Also needed

  • Separating zipper — 65 cm (25.6″) for sizes 40–46, 70 cm (27.5″) for sizes 48–54
  • Stretch binding tape — 3.5 m (137.8″)
  • Threads to match the fabric

Fabric use by size, for fabric width 150 cm (59.1″)

Sizes 40–42 44–46MOST PICKED 48–50 52–54
Vest with hood
Main fabric 1.15 m
45.3″
1.25 m
49.2″
1.35 m
53.2″
1.45 m
57.1″
Lining fabric 1.10 m
43.3″
1.20 m
47.2″
1.25 m
49.2″
1.35 m
53.2″
Vest with collar
Main fabric 1.00 m
39.4″
1.05 m
41.3″
1.10 m
43.3″
1.10 m
43.3″
Lining fabric 1.00 m
39.4″
1.05 m
41.3″
1.10 m
43.3″
1.10 m
43.3″

Pattern pieces already include 1 cm (0.39″) seam allowances for all edges. Fabrics may shrink, so it's advised to purchase an additional 5–10% of material.

Cutting list

Specification

Pattern piecePcs.
Main fabric
1 — Front panel2
2 — Back with fold1
3 — Centre hood piece1
4 — Side hood piece2
5 — Zipper underlap2
6 — Pocket welt2
7 — Pocket facing2
8 — Collar stand2
Lining fabric
1 — Front lining2
2 — Back lining with fold1
9 — Bottom pocket bag2
10 — Top pocket bag2
11 — Side hood lining2
12 — Centre hood lining1
Stretch bias tape
13 — Armhole edging2
14 — Bottom edging1
15 — Hood edging1
Diagram of the 15 numbered pattern pieces for the Bern puffer vest

Pattern pieces — tap to zoom in

Ease allowances Chest circumference 8 cm (3.15″), waist circumference 18 cm (7.1″), hip circumference 6 cm (2.4″).
Cutting layout

Layout of parts on fabric

Fabric width 1.5 m (59.1″), shown for sizes 40 and 54

Vest with hood — main fabric

Size 40 · S
Main fabric cutting layout for the hooded Bern vest, size 40

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Size 54 · 5XL
Main fabric cutting layout for the hooded Bern vest, size 54

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Vest with hood — lining fabric

Size 40 · S
Lining fabric cutting layout for the hooded Bern vest, size 40

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Size 54 · 5XL
Lining fabric cutting layout for the hooded Bern vest, size 54

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Vest with collar — main fabric

Size 40 · S
Main fabric cutting layout for the collared Bern vest, size 40

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Size 54 · 5XL
Main fabric cutting layout for the collared Bern vest, size 54

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Vest with collar — lining fabric

Size 40 · S
Lining fabric cutting layout for the collared Bern vest, size 40

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Size 54 · 5XL
Lining fabric cutting layout for the collared Bern vest, size 54

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Step by step

Sewing instruction

37 steps in six stages. The hood and the collar are alternatives — sew whichever version you are making.

Pockets

13 steps
  1. 1

    Mark the location of the pockets on the front panel (1) according to the pattern markings.

  2. 2

    Fold the pocket welt (6) in half with the wrong side inside, pin, and secure along the edges on three sides.

  3. 3

    Attach the top pocket bag (10) to the pocket welt with a seam width of 1 cm.

  4. 4

    Stitch the pocket facing (7) to the bottom pocket bag (9). Lay the pieces right sides together, extending the facing 1 cm (0.39″) beyond the notches.

  5. 5

    Sew with a seam width of 1 cm (0.39″), from notch to notch.

  6. 6

    Fold the facing to the right side and secure on three sides.

  7. 7

    Place the welt with the attached pocket bag on the lower pocket frame line, pocket bag facing up, and pin.

  8. 8

    Lay the second part of the pocket bag on the upper line and pin it, aligning the lines and the end of the pocket marking.

  9. 9

    Stitch the welt and pocket bag to the front panel. After stitching, check the distance between the seams: it should be exactly equal to the width of the finished welt.

  10. 10

    Cut the pocket entrance in the centre between the lines, not reaching the horizontal line by 2 cm (0.79″), and snip the corners, not reaching the stitching by 0.1 cm (0.039″).

  11. 11

    Turn the welt and pocket bag to the wrong side of the front panel, straighten the corners, and secure them.

  12. 12

    Stitch the pocket bag at the top and bottom, and secure the front cut along the edge of the lapel.

  13. 13

    Sew the shoulder and side seams of the front panel (1) and back with fold (2) with a seam width of 1 cm (0.39″).

Hood

2 steps
  1. 1

    Pin and stitch the centre hood piece (3) to the side hood pieces (4) with a seam width of 1 cm (0.39″).

  2. 2

    Pin and sew the hood into the neckline with a seam width of 1 cm (0.39″).

Collar

3 steps
  1. 1

    Important: cut 0.3 cm off the top edge of one collar stand (8) piece to create a turn. Then face the upper stand with the lower stand, the one from which 0.3 cm (0.12″) was cut off.

  2. 2

    Stitch a securing seam on the front side of the lower stand at a distance of 0.2 cm (0.08″) from the seam, catching the allowances.

  3. 3

    Pin and sew the upper collar into the neckline with a seam width of 1 cm.

Windproof zipper underlap

7 steps
  1. 1

    Fold the zipper underlap (5) pieces face inwards, pin them together, and face with a seam width of 0.7 cm (0.27″).

  2. 2

    Cut out a corner and round, lay a finishing line with a width of 0.5 cm (0.2″).

  3. 3

    Secure the untreated cut to the width of the foot.

  4. 4

    Pin one part of the zipper to the windproof plank and topstitch, bending the upper edge of the zipper with a plank on the notch.

  5. 5

    Lay the plank with the zipper down on the left detail of the front panel along the edge of the lapel, pin on the notches, and topstitch.

  6. 6

    Fasten the zipper and on the second part mark all control points: the hood or collar insertion seam, the stitching lines and the end of the zipper. Pin the zipper to the right detail of the front panel along the edge of the lapel and stitch, aligning the control points.

  7. 7

    Fasten the zipper and make sure that all lines and seams are symmetrical.

Lining

3 steps
  1. 1

    Pin and stitch the shoulder and side cuts of the front lining (1) and back lining with fold (2) with a seam width of 1 cm (0.39″), iron the seams and press towards the back.

  2. 2

    Pin and stitch the centre hood lining (12) to the side hood lining pieces (11) with a seam width of 1 cm (0.39″).

  3. 3

    Pin and sew the hood into the lining neckline with a seam width of 1 cm (0.39″), iron the seam upwards.

Vest assembly

9 steps
  1. 1

    Pin the lining along the edge of the lapel and face, hitting the zipper stitching line.

  2. 2

    Lay a finishing and securing line on the lining at a distance of 0.5 cm from the seam.

  3. 3

    Secure the lining along the neckline, aligning the shoulder seams and the central part of the back lining and vest, with a stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm (0.2″) from the cut.

  4. 4

    Pin and stitch the lining to the vest in the hood or collar, the armholes, and the bottom of the garment.

  5. 5

    Prepare the elastic for processing the uncovered cuts: hood, armholes and bottom. Cut the elastic according to the patterns (13), (14), (15).

  6. 6

    Stitch the elastic for the armholes into a ring with a seam width of 1 cm. Mark the control points on the elastic and pin, evenly stretching and distributing the fit.

  7. 7

    Topstitch the elastic from the lining side at 0.2 cm (0.08″) from the edge, then, bending the cuts, pin and topstitch from the front side along the elastic at 0.2 cm (0.08″) from the edge.

  8. 8

    Steam the stitched elastic with an iron, not touching the garment, at a distance.

  9. 9

    Iron the finished product.

The Bern puffer vest is ready!
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