Insulated children's overalls with a lining, two zippers in the front, and a drawstring waist at the back. Elastic cuffs at the sleeves and trouser hems, plus a hood with a hat-elastic drawstring.
Children's overalls with insulation, lining, two zippers in the front, and a drawstring at the waist on the back.
Elastic cuffs finish the bottom of the sleeves and trousers, and the hood's drawstring includes a hat elastic for a snug fit. Sized from 1 to 4 years (80–104 cm height).
For sewing winter overalls, we recommend using membrane fabrics, as they are able to hold back moisture.
We recommend using fleece or carisma as a lining. Taffeta, foil lining fabric or any other smooth lining fabric can be used for the sleeves. Isosoft 200 or Alpolux 200 are suitable as insulation.
Tap a size to see it highlighted across the table. Based on 150 cm / 1⅝ yd wide fabric.
| Height (cm) | 80 1 y |
86 18 moMOST PICKED |
92 2 y |
98 3 y |
104 4 y |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, lining & insulation | 1.10 m 1⅛ yd |
1.15 m 1¼ yd |
1.20 m 1¼ yd |
1.30 m 1⅜ yd |
1.40 m 1½ yd |
Pattern pieces already include seam allowances.
| Height (cm) | 80 | 86MOST PICKED | 92 | 98 | 104 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zipper | 55 cm 21⅝" |
60 cm 23⅝" |
65 cm 25⅝" |
70 cm 27½" |
75 cm 29½" |
| Pattern piece | Pcs. |
|---|---|
| Main fabric | |
| 1 — Back | 2 |
| 2 — Front side | 2 |
| 3 — Top front center | 1 |
| 4 — Under front center | 2 |
| 5 — Placket for the zipper | 2 |
| 6 — Sleeve | 2 |
| 7 — Hood center | 1 |
| 8 — Hood side | 2 |
| 9 — Bottom cuff | 2 |
| 10 — Sleeve cuff | 2 |
| 11 — Back casing | 1 |
| 12 — Hanger | 1 |
| Lining | |
| 13 — Back | 2 |
| 14 — Front side | 2 |
| 15 — Front center | 2 |
| 16 — Sleeve | 2 |
| 17 — Placket for the zipper | 2 |
| 18 — Hood center | 1 |
| 19 — Hood side | 2 |
Width of fabric — 1.50 m / 1⅝ yd
Sew 1 cm (3/8") from the edge. Cut the allowances at the curve.
Topstitch at 0.1 cm (1/16") along the middle seam, fold the allowance to the left.
Pin the drawstring to the wrong side of the back along the notches and topstitch it, stepping back 1 cm (3/8") from the cut on both sides.
Cut the pre-steamed elastic to size and pull it through the drawstring using a pin. Secure the elastic along the side cuts.
Pin the under front along the middle seam. Sew, make slits on the curve, fold the allowance to the left.
Topstitch at 0.1 cm (1/16") from the stitching seam.
Pin the under front to the top part, stitch at 1 cm (3/8") from the edge. Direct the allowances to the top part and topstitch at 0.1 cm (1/16") from the stitching seam.
Sew the zipper to the central parts of the front, stepping back 1 cm (3/8") from the top and cutting the pre-interfaced corner at 90 degrees by 1 cm (3/8").
Sew the side part of the front to the central part. Iron the seam allowances towards the side part.
Pin the front and back pieces along the inseam, folding the pieces face to face. Iron the seam allowances towards the back.
Pin the shoulder and side seams. Iron the seam allowances towards the back.
Fold the cuff in half along the short edge with the right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening for pulling in the elastic. Iron the allowances.
Pin the cuff to the trouser leg along the control marks.
Cut the pre-steamed elastic to size and use a pin to pull it into the cuff.
Sew the edges of the elastic by 1 cm (3/8"). Spread out the allowances to reduce the thickness.
Baste the opening manually.
Pin the sleeve, folding the pieces with the right sides together. Iron the seam allowances towards the back.
Fold the cuff together, face to face, and sew into a ring, leaving an unstitched opening for threading the elastic. Iron the seam allowances apart.
Fold the cuff along the upper seam allowance, wrong side together. Iron the fold of the cuff.
Pin the cuff to the sleeve and stitch so that the opening is on the inside. Press the seam allowance upward.
Cut the pre-steamed elastic according to desired size and use a pin to pull it into the cuff.
Sew the ends of the elastic and spread the allowances in different directions to reduce the thickness.
Sew the opening with hand stitches, or use a sewing machine to sew a line through, securing the elastic at the same time.
Fold the sleeve with the product face to face and sew the sleeve from the garment side. Press the sleeve cap allowances and direct them towards the sleeve.
Topstitch the contact tape along the marked lines on the right side of the lining placket.
Topstitch the other side of the contact tape onto the left front placket.
Stitch the placket with the lining, folding the pieces face inward. Topstitch along the lining piece 0.2 cm (1/8") from the stitching seam. Press.
Stitch the edge of the placket near which the Velcro is located, cut out the corners, turn inside out and press.
Stitch the placket front at 1 cm (3/8").
Interface the space for the eyelets and install them on the hood side.
Sew the piping to the side part of the upper hood 1 cm (3/8") away from the cut. Fasten the ends of the piping.
Pin the central part of the hood to the side, aligning the control marks and folding the parts face inward. Sew.
Turn the allowances to the side of the hood and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from the seam.
Cut and pull the hat elastic through the eyelets and through the fastener.
Place the lining pieces of the side part of the hood on the insulation, pin them and stitch along the edge.
Sew the side part of the hood lining to the central one.
Direct the lining allowances to the side of the hood and make a finishing stitch 0.5 cm (3/16") from the seam.
Pin the hood together with the lining so that the elastic remains inside the drawstring. Stitch along the edge of the hood by 2.5 cm (1").
Fasten the upper hood and the hood lining along the lower edge.
Sew the hood to the neck 1 cm (3/8") from the edge.
Stitch the lining pieces onto the insulation along all edges.
Using a ruler and chalk, draw a line along the central piece of the back lining and stitch once more.
Pin the back lining together, folding the pieces face inward and aligning the control marks. Stitch from the edge by 1 cm (3/8").
Press the middle part of the back from the top. Press the area of the seat seam.
Pin the central part of the lining front together. Sew. Press the upper part, and press the area of the seat seam.
Sew the side part of the front to the central part at the bottom, not reaching 1 cm (3/8") to the edge of the allowance. Press the allowances.
Pin the side and shoulder seams, stitch, iron the allowances onto the back.
Pin the inseam of the lining, stitch, iron the allowances onto the back.
Pin the sleeves of the lining, stitch. Leave an unstitched opening in the left sleeve for turning. Press the allowances towards the back.
Fold the sleeve and lining face to face, sew in the sleeve from the side of the garment. When sewing in, insert holders for the lining into the shoulder and side seams. Direct the sleeve allowance towards the sleeve.
Iron the long sides of the loop to the wrong side 0.3 cm (1/8") from the edge and fold in half. Stitch 0.1 cm (1/16") from the edge.
Mark on the neckline of the lining from the center of the back on both sides by 2.5 cm (1") and fasten.
Sew the side part of the front lining to the lining of the placket.
Sew the upper allowance of the placket, turning into the neckline. Cut out the corners and cut the curves.
Connect the allowance of the lining of the placket to the placket of the main fabric.
Sew the center of the front with lining. Cut out the corners.
Place the bottom cuffs into the lining, pin them and stitch them along the lining.
Place the sleeve cuffs into the lining and connect them.
Fasten the holders along the shoulder and side seams.
Fasten the seam allowances along the center of the inseam of the lining with the top.
Turn the overalls inside out through the unstitched opening. Sew the opening up.
Press the finished overalls.
