The Seam Ripper Is Your Friend
No sewist wants to talk about it—but every sewist does it………
Every craft has its own secret language, and sewing is no exception. If you’ve ever opened a pattern and felt like you were reading code—“cut on fold,” “staystitch the armscye,” “clip to the notch”—you’re not alone. The jargon can be intimidating, especially for beginners. But here’s the good news: learning to speak sewing is easier than it sounds—and mastering the lingo is the first step toward sewing with confidence. Here’s a glossary of 15 essential sewing terms every beginner should know, so you can follow patterns, watch tutorials, and chat with fellow sewists without feeling lost in translation.
The grainline refers to the direction of the threads in your fabric. On most patterns, it’s marked with a long double-headed arrow that should be placed parallel to the fabric’s selvage (the finished edge). Cutting on the correct grain ensures your garment hangs and stretches properly.
The selvage is the tightly woven edge that runs along the length of the fabric. It doesn’t fray and is your reference point for aligning the grainline.
The right side of the fabric is the one meant to be seen on the outside of the garment. The wrong side is the inside. Some fabrics have obvious differences; others may look similar but behave differently when pressed or sewn.
This is the distance between the stitching line and the raw edge of the fabric. Most commercial patterns use a 5/8″ (1.5 cm) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Knowing your seam allowance is crucial for proper fit.
Notches are small triangular or straight markings on the edge of a pattern piece. They help align fabric pieces accurately during construction. Transfer notches when cutting, and never skip them—they’re like puzzle-piece guides.
Basting means sewing with a long, loose stitch—either by hand or machine—to temporarily hold fabric in place. It’s used for fitting, gathering, or setting tricky seams before permanent stitching.
A line of stitching sewn just inside the seam allowance on curved edges (like necklines or armholes) to prevent stretching while assembling the garment. It’s usually done before joining other pieces.
Ease refers to extra room added to a garment for movement and comfort. “Wearing ease” makes clothes wearable; “design ease” gives them a specific silhouette (like oversized or fitted). It also refers to gently spreading a slightly larger piece (like a sleeve) to fit into a smaller edge (like an armhole).
A dart is a folded and sewn wedge of fabric that shapes the garment to your curves—typically at the bust, waist, or hip. Mastering darts makes for more flattering, tailored fits.
The hem is the finished bottom edge of a garment—on sleeves, pants, skirts, and more. Hemming prevents fraying and adds structure. It can be sewn by hand or machine and finished with a simple turn-up or a more complex method.
A seam finish refers to any technique used to prevent raw edges from fraying. Common finishes include zigzag stitching, pinking shears, French seams, or serging.
Interfacing is a material (often fusible) applied to the wrong side of fabric to add structure or stability. It’s commonly used in collars, waistbands, button plackets, and bags.
When a pattern says “cut on fold,” it means place the edge of the pattern piece along the folded edge of your fabric. Don’t cut this side—it unfolds into a symmetrical full piece. Mark this carefully to avoid duplicate halves instead of one whole.
Backstitching is the act of sewing backward at the beginning and end of a seam to secure the stitches. It prevents your seams from unraveling and is essential in almost every sewing project.
Tension refers to how tightly your machine pulls the thread as you sew. Incorrect tension can lead to loose loops, puckering, or broken stitches. Learn to adjust both upper and bobbin tension as needed for different fabrics.
Understanding sewing terminology isn’t just about vocabulary—it’s about clarity, confidence, and control. The more you familiarize yourself with these common terms, the more empowered you’ll feel when reading a pattern, watching a tutorial, or troubleshooting a tricky step.
So print this glossary, tape it to your sewing wall, and keep learning. Because once you can speak the language, you’ll be ready to tackle any project—from pillowcases to couture—with ease and precision.
No sewist wants to talk about it—but every sewist does it………
You’ve carefully cut the fabric. You’ve followed every step of the pattern instructions. ……