Jacqueline women's palazzo trousers sewing tutorial
PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Wide leg Palazzo trousers feature zip fastening, side seam pockets and a stitched waistband. They have two pleats at the waist on each side.
SUGGESTED MATERIALS
To sew these trousers we recommend medium-density suiting fabrics.
ALSO NEEDED
• Trouser zipper — 18 cm (7 ⅛”);
• Interfacing — 15 cm (5 ⅞”);
• Button — 1 pc.
FABRIC REQUIREMENT (CM/IN)
for fabric width 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
|
International Size \ European size |
XXS-XS / 34-36 |
S-M / 38-40 |
L-XL / 42-44 |
2XL-3XL / 46-48 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, m | 1,50 | 1,80 | 2,10 | 2,20 |
| Main fabric, yd | 1 ⅝ | 2 | 2 ¼ | 2 ⅜ |
When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5—10% more than required.
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Pattern pieces already include 1 cm (3/8”) seam allowances. Important! Adjust the length of the trousers according to your height.
SPECIFICATIONS
(№ – Name – Pieces’ quantity)
Main fabric:
1 – Front trouser – 2
2 – Back trouser – 2
3 – Side – 2
4 – Pocket bag – 2
5 – Fly – 1 + Interfacing
6 – Waistband – 1 + Interfacing
7 – Belt loop – 1
TOTAL EASE ALLOWANCES
(in cm and in)
• Waistline ease — 6 cm (2 ⅜”);
• Hipline ease — 5 cm (2″).
PATTERN PIECES
INTERFACING
Fly (5), waistband (6).
LAYOUT OF PARTS ON FABRIC
Width of fabric — 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
Size — 34 (XXS)
Size — 48 (XXXL)
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
POCKETS
1. Interface the pocket bag (4) along the cut of the pocket entrance with a strip of fusible tape.
2. Place the pocket bag (4) right sides together with the front trouser (1) and stitch at 0.7 cm (1/4”). Topstitch along the pocket bag. The stitching line should be at 0.2 cm (1/16”) from the stitching seam. Press the pocket bag on the wrong side.
3. Place the side piece on the pocket bag right sides together and sew it on using an overlocker and press the seam. Secure the pocket along the waist and side edges. Press the finished pockets.
4. Form pleats along the waistline and secure them with a stitch.
TROUSERS ASSEMBLING
1. Interface the zipper allowances on the front trouser halves (1). Press the allowance according to the patterns. Overlock or zig zag the middle seam.
2. Sew darts on the back halves of the trousers (2). Press them towards the seat seam, pressing up the area.
3. Place the front trouser on the back trouser right sides together, align the notches and sew the side cuts then overlock or zig zag the seam. Press to the back halves of the trousers.
4. Pin and stitch leg seams. Overlock or zigzag them. Press them to the side of the back trousers.
5. Sew the middle seam and the seat seam in one seam. Overlock and press.
ZIPPER
1. Press the fly (5) in half and stitch the bottom edge at 0.7 cm (1/4”) from the edge. Turn it onto the right side, press and overlock the edge.
2. Place the zipper on the fly to the overlocked seam allowance. Then place the pressed front left half of the trousers on top of the zipper, pin them and stitch close to the zipper at 0.2 cm (1/16”) along the ironed fold.
3. Place the fly flap (the right side of the fastener) evenly on the zipper, then bend the trouser half and pin the fly flap onto the zipper. Stitch it close to the zipper chain and make a second stitch along the edge of the zipper.
4. Topstitch along the front side of the fly flap. Secure the fly piece at the bottom from the wrong side. Press the finished fastening.
LOOPS
1. Overlock or zigzag one longest section of the belt loop piece (7). Place the unsewn section towards the center of the part and cover it with the overlocked allowance. Pin along the entire length and along the folds, topstitch at 0.2 cm (1/16”). Press.
2. Cut the loops to the required length and stitch them to the waist line along the notches.
WAISTBAND
1. Press the waistband (6) in half, inside out. Overlock the inner edge of the waistband.
2. Stitch the edges, cut and flip, press.
3. Pin the belt along the notches to the waistline and stitch. Press the seam allowance upward, towards the waistband. Sew the fly and fly catch with a waistband (optional).
4. Secure the waistband to the stitching seam, first pin the waistband along its entire length with pins.
5. Sew the loops to the waistband at 0.2 cm (1/16”) from the fold. Press.
6. Sew the buttonhole and sew on the button.
7. Overlock or zigzag the hem allowance and topstitch.
8. Give the trousers a final press.
