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PDF Pattern Men's vest

Svetloyar

A quilted, fully lined vest with an asymmetrical zipper, a stand-up collar and a voluminous patch pocket with a flap. Vertical shaped undercuts, armholes finished with facings.

Man wearing the Svetloyar quilted vest in black eco-leather, shown next to front and back technical sketches
40–54 Sizes included (S–5XL)
0.95–1.25 m Main fabric, by size
18 Pattern pieces
45 Steps to sew it

A quilted vest with an asymmetrical zipper

Quilted vest with an asymmetrical zipper. On the front there is a voluminous patch pocket with a flap.

Vest with vertical shaped undercuts, stand-up collar, armholes are decorated with facings. The vest is lined.

What you'll need

Suggested materials

  • Jacket fabrics of medium and high density, eco-leather
  • You can buy ready-made quilted fabric or quilt it yourself
  • Insulation «Alpolux» (100–150 g) or synthetic winterizer (150–200 g)
  • Any textile lining of medium and high density will do

Also needed

  • Interfacing — 45 cm (17 ¾″)
  • Bias interfacing tape — 1.50 m (1 5⁄8 yd)
  • Insulation (if you will quilt it yourself) — 1.50 m (1 5⁄8 yd)
  • Detachable zipper 70 cm (27 ½″) long — 1 pc

Fabric requirement by size, for fabric width 1.50 m (1 5⁄8 yd)

Size 40–42
S–M
44–46
L–XLMOST PICKED
48–50
2XL–3XL
52–54
4XL–5XL
Main fabric 0.95 m
1 yd
1.05 m
1 1⁄8 yd
1.15 m
1 ¼ yd
1.25 m
1 3⁄8 yd
Decorative fabric 0.80 m
7⁄8 yd
0.80 m
7⁄8 yd
0.80 m
7⁄8 yd
0.80 m
7⁄8 yd
Lining fabric 0.80 m
7⁄8 yd
0.80 m
7⁄8 yd
0.85 m
7⁄8 yd
0.85 m
7⁄8 yd
“

Pattern pieces already include seam allowances. When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5–10% more than required.

Cutting list

Specification

Pattern piecePcs.
Main fabric
1 — Front center + insulation1
2 — Right front side + insulation, right side1
3 — Left front side + insulation, right side1
4 — Back center + insulation1
5 — Back side + insulation2
Decorative fabric
6 — Cut-off part of the collar + insulation and interfacing for 1 piece2
7 — Collar + insulation and interfacing for 1 piece2
8 — Pocket1
9 — Pocket side1
10 — Top flap + interfacing1
11 — Under flap1
12 — Wind proof placket + interfacing for 1 piece2
13 — Front armhole facing + interfacing2
14 — Back armhole facing + interfacing2
Lining
15 — Front center lining right side1
16 — Right front side lining right side1
17 — Left front side lining right side1
18 — Back lining1
Diagram of the eighteen numbered pattern pieces for the Svetloyar vest

Pattern pieces — tap to zoom in

Insulated pieces Front center (1), right front side (2), left front side (3), back center (4), back side (5), collar cut-off part (6) — 1 piece, collar (7) — 1 piece.
Interfacing Cut-off part of the collar (6) — 1 piece, collar (7) — 1 piece, top flap (10), windproof placket (12) — 1 piece, front armhole facing (13), back armhole facing (14). Interface the allowances: front armhole facings (13), back armhole facings (14), and for the zipper — the front lining center (15) and the right front side part of the lining (16).
Total ease allowances Chest 22 cm (8 5⁄8″), waist 34 cm (13 3⁄8″), hips 19 cm (7 ½″).
Cutting layout

Layout of parts on fabric

All four fabrics at width 1.50 m (1 5⁄8 yd), shown for sizes 40 and 54

Main fabric — size 40 (S)
Main fabric cutting layout for the Svetloyar vest, size 40

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Main fabric — size 54 (5XL)
Main fabric cutting layout for the Svetloyar vest, size 54

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Decorative fabric — size 40 (S)
Decorative fabric cutting layout for the Svetloyar vest, size 40

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Decorative fabric — size 54 (5XL)
Decorative fabric cutting layout for the Svetloyar vest, size 54

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Lining — size 40 (S)
Lining cutting layout for the Svetloyar vest, size 40

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Lining — size 54 (5XL)
Lining cutting layout for the Svetloyar vest, size 54

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Insulation — size 40 (S)
Insulation cutting layout for the Svetloyar vest, size 40

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Insulation — size 54 (5XL)
Insulation cutting layout for the Svetloyar vest, size 54

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Step by step

Sewing instructions

Seven stages, from quilting the pieces to joining the lining to the top.

Preparing the quilted pieces

4 steps
  1. 1

    For the pieces that will have insulation, we cut the insulation with a rough cut plus 3 cm (1″) along the entire outline.

  2. 2

    Place stitches on the front and back pieces.

  3. 3

    Place the piece on the insulation and pin it along the entire outline.

  4. 4

    To avoid skewing, it is advisable to start stitching from the center of the piece, moving to the top and to the bottom. Important! If you are cutting out the main pieces of the vest from ready-made quilted fabric, be sure to put fastenings at the ends of the stitching lines so that the lines do not come apart during the wearing process. Important! Iron press the pieces with insulation very carefully, from the wrong side, without steam and use a pressing cloth. From the front side, set the iron to the minimum heat.

Pocket

11 steps
  1. 1

    On the side part of the pocket (9), iron press to the wrong side 0.5 cm (3⁄16″) allowances twice on the short side. Stitch along the fold of the allowance.

  2. 2

    Iron press one longitudinal side of the side of the pocket by 1 cm (3⁄8″) to the wrong side.

  3. 3

    Iron press the allowance of the patch pocket to the wrong side along the notches, as well as the bottom edge by 1 cm (3⁄8″).

  4. 4

    Place the side of the pocket face to face (with the unironed side) to the fold of the pocket along the top side, bend it with the pocket allowance and stitch along the side and bottom sides of the pocket.

  5. 5

    Turn it right side out and topstitch through the seam at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the edge. Iron press.

  6. 6

    Place the under flap (11) face to face on the top flap (10) and overstitch along the side and bottom sides.

  7. 7

    Cut out the corners and turn them right side out. Topstitch at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the edge.

  8. 8

    On the front center (1), mark the location of the pocket and flap.

  9. 9

    Place the iron pressed side of the pocket side to the marking and topstitch at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the edge. Place an additional fastening on top through the pocket. If desired you can also place the fastenings on the pocket curve.

  10. 10

    Place the flap with the upper side to the front side of the front center and topstitch to the marking line at 0.5 cm (3⁄16″) from the edge.

  11. 11

    Fold the flap down and make a fastening stitch at 0.7 cm (5⁄16″) from the stitching seam so that the allowances are closed. Iron press the finished pocket and flap.

Assembly

7 steps
  1. 1

    Put the front center and the left side part of the front (3) face to face and sew the relief seam, aligning the stitching lines. Iron press the allowances apart.

  2. 2

    Place the side pieces of the back (5) face to face on the back center (4) and sew, aligning the stitching lines. Iron press the allowances apart.

  3. 3

    Place the left (3) and right side pieces of the front (2) face to face on the back piece and stitch the shoulder and side seams, aligning the stitching lines. Iron press the allowances apart.

  4. 4

    Stitch the collar piece (7) with the insulation face to face with the cut-off part of the collar (6) on the left side. (There is a notch here for alignment.) Iron press the allowances apart.

  5. 5

    Align the collar with the garment face to face and stitch. Iron press the allowances apart.

  6. 6

    Before ironing the bottom of the vest, we recommend topstitching at 0.5 cm (3⁄16″) below the hem line so that the insulation is evenly distributed along the fold line.

  7. 7

    Iron press the hem of the bottom to the wrong side along the notches.

Zipper

6 steps
  1. 1

    Place the two pieces of the windproof placket (12) right side inward and stitch along the cut with rounding and along the lower cut. Cut out the corners and allowances and turn them right side out. Iron press.

  2. 2

    Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3⁄16″) from the edge and another at 0.5 cm (3⁄16″) from it.

  3. 3

    Place the right part of the zipper on the windproof placket so that the inside of the zipper lies on the front part of the windproof placket. Align the bottom and the raw edge of the placket with the edge of the zipper, bend the placket around the zipper at the top and make a fastening stitch along the edge of the zipper.

  4. 4

    Place the zipper with the placket face to face with the edge of the right side of the vest and stitch it on.

  5. 5

    Unzip and stitch the other side of the zipper to the stitch of the left side of the front.

  6. 6

    Zip up, check symmetry and iron press.

Lining

4 steps
  1. 1

    Fold the front center lining (15) with the lining of the left side piece (17). Iron the seam allowances onto the central part.

  2. 2

    Place the right (16) and left (17) side pieces of the front lining face to face on the back lining piece (18), stitch the shoulder and side seams. Leave an unstitched opening in the left side seam for turning. Iron press the seam allowances onto the back.

  3. 3

    Stitch the collar (7) and the cut-off part of the collar (6) along the seam in the pieces without insulation.

  4. 4

    Align the lower collar with the lining face to face and stitch. Iron press the seam allowances apart.

Facings

2 steps
  1. 1

    Put the front armhole facing (13) and the back armhole facing (14) face to face and stitch the shoulder and side seams. Iron press the seam allowances apart.

  2. 2

    Place the facings into the lining armholes and stitch them in, folding the pieces face to face. Iron the seam allowances onto the lining.

Connecting the lining to the top

11 steps
  1. 1

    Put the lining on the vest face to face and stitch the seam allowances along the collar fly. Turn right side out and topstitch along the lower collar at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the stitching seam. Iron press the fly seam.

  2. 2

    Put the vest with the facings face to face and finish the armholes, starting and finishing the stitch at the shoulder seam.

  3. 3

    Turn right side out and topstitch along the facing at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the stitching seam. Press the armholes.

  4. 4

    Turn the vest inside out and stitch the bottom of the lining to the hem allowance of the bottom. Iron press the allowances onto the lining.

  5. 5

    Stitch the zipper with the lining, bending the bottom of the zipper with the hem allowance.

  6. 6

    Fasten the vest and lining allowances along the neckline.

  7. 7

    Turn inside out, fold like this to align the allowances. Iron press the zipper seam.

  8. 8

    Topstitch along the zipper at 0.5 cm (3⁄16″) from the seam on one and the other side.

  9. 9

    Stitch up the unstitched opening.

  10. 10

    Place bartacks along the bottom of the side seams, as well as on the armhole on the side and shoulder seams through and through with the facings.

  11. 11

    Lightly iron press the finished vest.

The vest is ready!
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