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PDF Pattern Men's jeans

Elbrus

Straight-cut jeans with a medium waist. A metal zipper at the front, pockets in the side seams and one watch pocket; cut-off yokes and patch pockets on the back.

Man wearing the Elbrus jeans in blue denim, shown next to front and back technical sketches
40–54 Sizes included (S–5XL)
1.45–2.25 m Main fabric, by size
11 Pattern pieces
38 Steps to sew it

Straight jeans with a medium waist

Straight-cut jeans with a medium waist. The front features a metal zipper, pockets in the side seams and one watch pocket.

The back pieces have cut-off yokes and patch pockets.

What you'll need

Suggested materials

  • Denim, dense corduroy, cotton
  • Fabric width used throughout this tutorial — 1.50 m (1 5⁄8 yd)

Also needed

  • Interfacing — 20 cm (7 7⁄8″)
  • Cotton lining — 35 cm (13 ¾″)
  • Bias-cut fusible tape — 40 cm (15 ¾″)
  • Zipper 16 cm (6 ¼″) long — 1 pc
  • Buttons — 1 pc

Fabric requirement by size, for fabric width 1.50 m (1 5⁄8 yd)

Size 40–42
S–M
44–46
L–XLMOST PICKED
48–50
2XL–3XL
52–54
4XL–5XL
Main fabric 1.45 m
1 5⁄8 yd
1.85 m
2 yd
2.20 m
2 3⁄8 yd
2.25 m
2 ½ yd

Pattern pieces already include seam allowances. When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5–10% more than required.

Cutting list

Specification

Pattern piecePcs.
Main fabric
1 — Front jean2
2 — Back jean2
3 — Watch pocket1
4 — Side2
5 — Yoke2
6 — Fly + interfacing1
7 — Patch pocket2
8 — Loop1
9 — Front waistband + interfacing4
10 — Back waistband + interfacing2
Lining
11 — Pocket bag2
Diagram of the eleven numbered pattern pieces for the Elbrus jeans

Pattern pieces — tap to zoom in

Interfacing Fly (6), front waistband (9), back waistband (10). Interface the allowances: pocket entrance with bias-cut fusible tape on a pocket bag (11), zipper allowances on the front pieces (1), upper allowance of a patch pocket (7).
Total ease allowances Waist 2 cm (¾″), hips 2 cm (¾″), thigh 11 cm (4 3⁄8″).
Cutting layout

Layout of parts on fabric

Main fabric, width 1.50 m (1 5⁄8 yd), shown for sizes 40 and 54

Size 40 (S)
Main fabric cutting layout for the Elbrus jeans, size 40

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Size 54 (5XL)
Main fabric cutting layout for the Elbrus jeans, size 54

Tap the diagram to zoom in

Step by step

Sewing instructions

Six stages, from the front pockets to the finished belt loops.

Front pockets

10 steps
  1. 1

    Press the upper seam allowance of the watch pocket along the notches (3) and stitch along the edge of the allowance. Press.

  2. 2

    Press the side lower allowances.

  3. 3

    Sew the pocket on the right side (4) according to the markings on the patterns. Press.

  4. 4

    Overlock the lower edges of the sides (4).

  5. 5

    Interface the pocket entrance on the pocket bags (11) with bias tape.

  6. 6

    Sew the sides (4) of all pieces onto the upper edge on the right side of the lining.

  7. 7

    Stitch the entrance to the pocket on the front pieces (1) with pocket bags, placing the pieces right sides together.

  8. 8

    Make a double topstitch along the pocket entrance and press.

  9. 9

    Edge the bottom of the pocket bag with a double fold hem seam. To do this, fold it inside out and stitch it down at 0.5 cm (3⁄16″).

  10. 10

    Fold the pocket bag like this and stitch at 0.7 cm (¼″) so that the allowance is on the inside.

Zipper

8 steps
  1. 1

    Interface the allowances for the zipper on the left and right front pieces (1). Press according to the patterns and overlock the middle edge.

  2. 2

    Stitch the middle seam, placing the pieces right sides together, starting the stitching 1 cm (3⁄8″) above the zipper allowances.

  3. 3

    Press the fly (6) in half with the wrong side inward and overlock the bottom and side cuts.

  4. 4

    Sew the zipper to the overlocked edge of the fly close to the links, finishing the stitch near the zipper stop.

  5. 5

    Place the pressed right front piece of the jeans on the zipper, pin them together and stitch them close to the zipper along the pressed fold.

  6. 6

    Place the fly straight on the zipper, then fold back the half of the jeans and pin the fly on the zipper. Make a stitch close to the zipper links.

  7. 7

    Make a double topstitch along the front side of the fly, continuing the stitch along the middle seam. For convenience, you can chalk a stitching line.

  8. 8

    Stitch the fly with a fly facing at the bottom from the wrong side. Press the finished fly.

Preparing the back pieces

6 steps
  1. 1

    Press the upper seam allowances of the patch pockets (7) and topstitch along the edge of the allowance.

  2. 2

    Press the bottom and side seam allowances.

  3. 3

    Mark the location of the pockets according to the markings on the patterns and sew them on with a double topstitch. Press.

  4. 4

    Sew the yokes (5) to the upper edge of the back pieces of the jeans (2). Overlock and press the allowances on the back pieces.

  5. 5

    Make a double topstitch along these seams and press them.

  6. 6

    Sew the middle seam of the back pieces of the jeans. To do this, we place them right sides together. Press.

Assembling

5 steps
  1. 1

    Sew the leg seams of the front and back pieces of the jeans. Overlock and press the allowances on the front.

  2. 2

    Make a double topstitch and press it.

  3. 3

    Sew the side seams, overlock and press the allowances on the back pieces. To do this, place them right sides together.

  4. 4

    Topstitch along the side seam of the back pieces of the jeans at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the waist edge to the place where the pocket ends.

  5. 5

    Press the bottom of the jeans and topstitch along the edge of the seam allowance.

Waistband

5 steps
  1. 1

    Sew the front (9) and back (10) waistbands along the side seams. Press the allowances. Note: the waistband should be asymmetrical in the front.

  2. 2

    Press the inner waistband along the bottom edge by 1 cm (3⁄8″).

  3. 3

    Sew the waistband along the side and top edges. Cut out the corners, turn them right side out and press them.

  4. 4

    Sew the un-pressed waistband to the top edge of the jeans, placing it right sides together with the garment. Press the allowances onto the waistband.

  5. 5

    Topstitch along all sides of the waistband, simultaneously securing the under waistband. Press.

Loops

4 steps
  1. 1

    Overlock one cut of the waistband loop piece (8). Place the second cut to the center of the piece and cover it with the overlocked allowance. Then pin it along the entire length, and along the pressed sides topstitch at 0.1 cm (1⁄16″). Press.

  2. 2

    Divide the loops into 5 equal parts. Cut the waistband loops and stitch the bottom edge, stepping 1.5 cm (¾″) from the seam where the waistband is attached.

  3. 3

    Fold it up, adjusting the length, and sew the top part of the loop onto the waistband and press it.

  4. 4

    Mark the location of the buttonhole and button. Sew a buttonhole and sew on the button. Press the finished jeans.

The jeans are ready!
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