A straight-cut shirt with a central button-and-loop fastening, a turn-down collar on a stand, and long sleeves with cuffs — finished with a double yoke on the back and a counter fold below it.
This straight-cut shirt closes down the center front on loops and buttons, with a turn-down collar set on a stand. Long sleeves finish in plackets and cuffs, while the back carries a double yoke with a counter fold running down from it.
Sized from 8 to 14 years (128–164 cm height).
Shirting and dress fabrics work best: cotton, poplin, linen, thin denim, and similar wovens.
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| Fabric width 1.50 m / 1 ⅝ yd |
128–134 8–9 y |
140–146 10–11 yMOST PICKED |
152–164 12–14 y |
|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric | 1.05 m 1 1⁄10 yd |
1.15 m 1 1⁄10 yd |
1.25 m 1 1⁄10 yd |
When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5–10% more than required.
| Pattern piece | Pcs. |
|---|---|
| Main fabric | |
| 1 — Front | 2 |
| 2 — Back with a fold | 1 |
| 3 — Yoke with a fold | 2 |
| 4 — Sleeve | 2 |
| 5 — Top collar with a fold | 1 + Interfacing |
| 6 — Under collar with a fold | 1 |
| 7 — Stand with a fold | 2 + Interfacing |
| 8 — Cuff | 2 + Interfacing |
| 9 — Sleeve placket | 2 + Interfacing |
| 10 — Sleeve edging | 2 |
Chest ease – 16 cm (6 5⁄16″); Waist ease – 26 cm (10 ¼″); Hips ease – 11 cm (4 5⁄16″). Pattern pieces already include seam allowances.
Color-coded to match the specification above
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Width of fabric – 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd). Smallest and largest size shown.
Size 128 (8 y)
Size 164 (14 y)
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Interface the side placket on the front pieces (1) with a strip of interfacing. Press the placket to the wrong side along the notches.
Stitch along the edge of the placket to the width of the allowance. Press.
Make a counter fold along the upper edge on the back piece (2). Press.
Sew both yokes (3) to the back (2) so that the back is between the yokes. Seam width should be 1 cm (⅜″).
Fold the yokes to the front and topstitch by 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the stitching seam.
Align the front pieces with the top yoke, right sides inward, along the shoulder cuts. Place the under yoke on top, right side down, align the shoulder cuts and stitch. Turn right side out and press.
Topstitch along the shoulder seam by 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the stitching seam. Press.
Sew the side seams, folding the pieces with the right sides together. Press the seam allowances onto the back.
Place the under collar (6) on the top collar (5) and overlock along the short sides and the collar line. Cut out the corners and turn them right side out. Press.
Topstitch along the collar by 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the edge.
Press the seam allowance for sewing into the neck opening by 1 cm (⅜″) on one of the stand pieces (7).
Insert the collar between the stand pieces so that the stand piece with the pressed seam allowance lies face to face with the lower collar. Overlock the stand pieces, cut out the seam allowances and turn them right side out. Press.
Pin and sew in the under unironed collar stand into the neck opening from the wrong side of the shirt. Press the allowance towards the stand.
Pin and topstitch the pressed allowance of the second stand from the right side 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the edge, continuing this line along the entire perimeter of the stand. Press.
On the sleeve pieces (4), lay one-sided folds.
Mark the sleeve cut line on the wrong side according to the markings on the patterns.
Press the sleeve plackets (9) in half and the long cut with a corner.
Press the sleeve edging (10) in half with the wrong side inward and one long cut to the fold.
Pin the sleeve edging to the marking line from the side of the shorter distance from the cut.
Pin the sleeve cut placket to the second side of the marking.
Stitch along both pieces by 1 cm (⅜″) from the cuts. The stitches should be parallel.
Cut along the marked line, 1.5 cm (⅜″) away from the seams. Then cut at the corner.
Fold the sleeve edging to the front side so that the allowances are inside. Stitch along the edging by 0.1 cm (1⁄16″) from the edge, getting into the stitching seam.
Fold the placket to the front side, secure the allowances at the top of the cut.
Topstitch along the placket by 0.1 cm (1⁄16″). Press.
Sew the sleeve seam, overlock and press to the elbow side.
Press the cuff (8) in half and one long upper edge.
Fold the cuff right sides together and stitch along the short sides, cut out the corners and turn right side out. Press.
Fold the right side of the cuff with the wrong side of the sleeve. Sew, press the seam allowances onto the cuff.
Place the pressed side of the cuff against the seam and stitch, continuing it along the entire perimeter of the cuff. Press.
Pin the sleeves into the armholes, aligning the notches. Sew in and overlock. Press the seam allowances onto the garment.
Finish the bottom of the shirt with a hem with a double hem seam. Press the seam allowance by 0.5 cm (1⁄16″) and again by 0.5 cm (1⁄16″), then stitch along the entire bottom.
Make buttonholes on the placket, stand, sleeve placket and cuffs according to the markings on the patterns.
Sew on the buttons.
Give a garment a final press.
