Vivien women's party dress sewing tutorial
PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Dress with a semi-fitting cut, midi length. It features a figured neckline at the front, the bodice of the dress is lined, puffed sleeves with elastic at the top and bottom. The front and back have cut-off sides, the bottom is wrapped around the front. It fastens with an invisible zipper in the middle back seam.
SUGGESTED MATERIALS
Dress fabrics of high and medium density that keep their shape well.
ALSO NEEDED
• Invisible zipper — 45 cm (17 ¾”);
• Interfacing — 40 cm (15 ¾”);
• Fusible bias tape to reinforce neck allowances — 1.00 m (1 ⅛ yd);
• Elastic band 2 cm (¾”) wide — 60 cm. (23 ⅝”) (sleeve top);
• Elastic band 1 cm (⅜”) wide — 60 cm (23 ⅝) (sleeve bottom);
• Lining — 40 cm (15 ¾”).
FABRIC REQUIREMENT (CM/IN)
for fabric width 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
|
International Size \ European size |
XXS-XS / 34-36 |
S-M / 38-40 |
L-XL / 42-44 |
2XL-3XL / 46-48 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, m | 1,45 | 1,50 | 1,50 | 1,55 |
| Main fabric, yd | 1 ⅝ | 1 ⅝ | 1 ⅝ | 1 ¾ |
When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5—10% more than required.
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Pattern pieces already include 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowances.
SPECIFICATIONS
(№ – Name – Pieces’ quantity)
Main fabric:
1 – Folded front center- 1
2 – Front side – 2
3 – Back center – 2
4 – Back side – 2
5 – Front bottom – 2
6 – Back bottom – 2
7 – Sleeve – 2
Lining
8 – Folded front center – 1
9 – Front side – 2
10 – Back center – 2
11 – Back side – 2
ELASTIC BAND LENGTH FOR SLEEVES
| Size | XXS (34) | XS (36) | S (38) | M (40) | L (42) | XL (44) | 2XL (46) | 3XL (48) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sleeve top (cm) | 18,5 | 19,0 | 19,5 | 20,0 | 20,5 | 21,0 | 22,0 | 23,0 |
| Sleeve top (in) | 7 ⅛ | 7 ½ | 7 ½ | 7 ⅞ | 7 ⅞ | 8 ¼ | 8 ⅝ | 9 |
| Sleeve bottom (cm) | 24,0 | 25,0 | 26,0 | 27,0 | 28,0 | 29,0 | 30,0 | 31,0 |
| Sleeve bottom (in) | 9 ½ | 9 ⅞ | 10 ¼ | 10 ⅝ | 11 | 11 ⅜ | 11 ⅞ | 12 ¼ |
TOTAL EASE ALLOWANCES
(in cm and in)
• Chest ease — 9 cm (3 ½”);
• Waistline ease — 8 cm (3 ⅛”);
• Hipline ease — 6 cm (2 ⅜”).
PATTERN PIECES
INTERFACING
Interface the seam allowances of the lower part of the front (5) with a strip of interfacing, reinforce the allowance for the zipper in the middle seam of the back, reinforce the neck. allowances on the lining of the center front (8), side (9) and (11), and the central part of the back (10) with fusible bias tape.
LAYOUT OF PARTS ON FABRIC
Width of fabric — 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
Size — 34 (XXS)
Size — 48 (XXXL)
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
BODICE
1. Place the side parts (2) right sides together with the central part of the front (1), pin along the curved edges, stitch and overlock them. Press the seam allowances onto the center front.
2. Interface the sections under the zipper in the central parts of the back (3). Overlock or zigzag the edges.
3. Place the back side pieces (4) right sides together with the central back pieces (3), stitch and overlock them. Press the seam allowances onto the center back pieces.
4. Press the front on the back right sides together, pin along the side edges and stitch, overlock the seam allowances. Press them onto the back.
5. Reinforce the neck edges of the lining parts (8), (9), (10), (11) with interfacing tape.
6. Assemble the lining parts in the same way as the main fabric parts. Overlock or zigzag the waist edge.
DRESS BOTTOM
1. Stitch the darts (5), starting from the notches and ending at the point of the base of the corner. Press the darts towards the center of the pieces.
2. Interface the wrap hem and press it inside out. Press the hem at the bottom. Sew these cuts.
3. Stitch the corners of the hem allowances, press the seams and turn them onto the right side straightening the corners.
4. Interface the sections under the zipper and overlock them on the lower parts of the back (6).
5. Stitch the darts on the lower back pieces and press them towards the center seam.
6. Press the hem allowance on the bottom to the wrong side.
7. Sew the middle seam at the bottom of the back, press the seam allowances. Overlock or zigzag the hem allowance at the bottom.
8. Place the parts of the lower part of the front on the bottom of the back right sides together, pin along the side cuts aligning the notches, and stitch. Overlock the seam allowances and press them to the back.
9. Topstitch along the hem and wrap allowances to the width of the hem. Sew the bottom front pieces along the waistline.
10. Place the bodice of the dress right sides together with the bottom of the dress and pin along the waistline, matching all the seams and notches. Stitch and overlock. Press allowances onto the bodice of the dress.
ZIPPER
1. Sew a zipper into the middle seam of the back. To do this, unfasten it and place one part of the zipper to the already overlocked back allowance, pin it with pins and stitch close to the chain.
2. Fasten, transfer the control marks to the second part of the zipper and stitch it to the second back allowance. Press the zipper.
SLEEVES
1. Press the hem of the sleeve top (7), overlock the edge and topstitch to the width of the hem. Press the stitch.
2. Pull the elastic to the desired length and secure it on both sides. Press the gathering slightly.
3. Press the hem of the sleeve bottom at 1.5 cm (3/4’’).
4. Sew the sleeve seam and overlock it. Press the seam allowance towards the back of the sleeve.
5. Overlock the bottom of the sleeve and top stitch along the hem at 1.2 cm (3/8’’), leaving an unstitched opening for the elastic to be pulled in.
6. Pull the elastic to the desired length, overlap it and stitch the hole. Press the finished sleeve.
7. Pin the sleeves into the armhole along the notches and sew in. Press the seam.
8. Finish the bodice with lining. To do this, stitch the lining to the middle back seam. Unfasten the zipper and place the lining right side down on the zipper, stitch close to the chain. Finish the other side in the same way. Fasten the zipper and press the lining.
9. Line the neckline and armholes with lining. To do this, turn the dress inside out, place the lining right sides together with the dress, go around the zipper with the lining along theneckline and pin it, aligning the notches and seams. Pin the lining along the armholes.
10. Stitch the back neck, armhole and front neck with the lining at the same time.
11. Trim the thick areas of the allowances and cut the armhole allowances at the curves. Topstitch along the lining of the front and back neck at 0.2 cm (1/16”) from the seam. Pressthe lining along the neckline and armholes.
12. Secure the lining along the waistline in several places.
13. Give the dress a final press.
