Viola women's jeans sewing tutorial
PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Mom fit jeans with a high waistband and slightly cropped length. The garment features a metal zipper on the front, pockets in the side seams and one watch pocket. The back piece has detachable yokes and patch pockets.
SUGGESTED MATERIALS
We recommend using denim or cotton.
ALSO NEEDED
• Metal zipper — 16 cm (6 ¼”);
• Interfacing — 15 cm (5 ⅞”);
• Button — 1 pc.;
• Cotton lining — 45 cm (17 ¾”);
• Fusible bias tape — 40 cm (15 ¾”).
FABRIC REQUIREMENT (CM/IN)
for fabric width 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
|
International Size \ European size |
XXS-XS / 34-36 |
S-M / 38-40 |
L-XL / 42-44 |
2XL-3XL / 46-48 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, m | 1,20 | 1,30 | 1,35 | 1,40 |
| Main fabric, yd | 1 ⅜ | 1 ⅜ | 1 ½ | 1 ½ |
When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5—10% more than required.
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Pattern pieces already include 1 cm (3/8”) seam allowances. Adjust the length of the jeans according to your height.
SPECIFICATIONS
(№ – Name – Pieces’ quantity)
Main fabric:
1 – Front trouser – 2
2 – Back trouser – 2
3 – Side – 2
4 – Watch pocket – 1 Right side
5 – Patch pocket – 2
6 – Fly – 1 + Interfacing
7 – Back yoke – 2
8 – Front waistband – 4 + Interfacing
9 – Back waistband with fold – 2 + Interfacing
10 – Belt loop – 1
Lining
11 – Pocket back – 2
TOTAL EASE ALLOWANCES
(in cm and in)
• Waist ease — 1 cm (3/8’’);
• Hips ease — 1 cm (3/8’’).
PATTERN PIECES
INTERFACING
Fly (6), front waistband (8), back waistband (9). Strengthen the entrance to the pocket with iron-on fusible bias tape on the pocket bag (11), interface the zipper allowances on the front pieces (1).
LAYOUT OF PARTS ON FABRIC
Width of fabric — 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
Size — 34 (XXS)
Size — 48 (XXXL)
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
FRONT POCKETS
1. Press flat the top allowance of the watch pocket (4). Sew along the edge of the seam allowance. Press.
2. Press flat the side seams of the watch pocket(4).
3. Sew the pocket on the left side (3) according to the markings on the patterns. Press.
4. Overlock or zigzag the bottom edges of the sides (3).
5. Interface the pocket entrance on the pocket bag (11) with fusible bias tape.
6. Sew the side pieces (3) along all the edges onto the right side of the lining.
7. Stitch the pocket entrance with the pocket lining, placing the pieces right sides together. Notch the seam allowances and flip to the right side.
8. Topstitch along the pocket entrance and press.
9. Overcast the lining with a double fold seam, fold it inside out and stitch at 0.5 cm (3/16’’). Fold the lining over and stitch so that the seam allowance is found inside. Press.
10. Secure the front pieces with side pieces and lining along the side and top edges.
ZIPPER
1. Interface the zipper allowances on the left and right front pieces (1). Press according to the patterns. Overlock or zigzag the middle cut.
2. Press the fly (6) in half and stitch the bottom edge at 0.7 cm (1/4’’) from the edge. Flip it onto the right side, press and overclock or zigzag the side edge.
3. Stitch the zipper close to the zipper chain to the hemmed edge of the fly. Finish the stitching line next to the zipper stop.
4. Place the well-pressed front left half of the trousers over the zipper, pin and stitch close to the zipper along the pressed fold.
5. Place the top fly (the right side of the fastener) evenly on the zipper, then bend the trouser half and pin the top fly onto the zipper. Stitch close to the zipper chain.
6. Topstitch along the front side of the top fly. Stitch the top fly with the bottom fly from the wrong side at the bottom. Press the finished fastener.
PREPARATION OF THE BACK PIECES OF JEANS
1. Sew the back yokes (7) to the upper edge of the back trousers (2). Overlock or zigzag and press the yoke allowances.
2. Topstitch along the yoke and press.
3. Press the top seam allowance of the patch pockets (5) and topstitch along the edge of the seam allowance.
4. Press the bottom and side seams.
5. Mark the location of the pockets according to the markings on the patterns and stitch them. Press.
6. Sew the seat (middle) seam of the back trousers, overlock or zigzag and topstitch. Press.
ASSEMBLING
1. Sew the inseams of the front and back trousers, overlock or zigzag them and press the allowances on the front.
2. Topstitch them and press.
3. Sew the side seams, overlock or zigzag and press back allowances.
4. Topstitch along the side seam allowance of the back trousers at 0.1 cm (1/16’’) from the waist edge to the place where the pocket ends.
5. Press the bottom of the trousers and topstitch along the edge of the seam allowance.
LOOPS
1. Overlock or zigzag one section of the belt loop part (10). Place the second cut towards the center of the part and cover with an overlocked seam allowance. Pin along the entire length and topstitch at 0.2 cm (1/16’’) along the folds. Press.
2. Cut the belt loops to the required length and sew them to the waist line along the notches.
WAISTBAND
1. Sew the front waistband (8) and back waistband (9) along the side seams. Press the allowances.
2. Press the inner waistband along the bottom edge.
3. Sew the waistbands along the side and top edges. Cut out corners, flip onto the right side and press.
4. Sew the un-ironed waistband to the top edge of the jeans, right sides together with the garment. Press the seam allowances onto the waistband.
5. Topstitch along all sides of the waistband, securing the bottom waistband at the same time.
6. Stitch the belt loops to the belt and press.
7. Make a buttonhole and sew on the button.
8. Press the finished jeans well.
