Provence women's dress - sewing tutorial
PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Provence is a close-fitted dress that features a waist seam and a low neckline. The bustier bodice has princess seams. Sleeves are set-in and have pleats. The semi-circle skirt is bias cut. The dress fastens with an invisible zipper in the center back seam. The pattern features 3 length options.
SUGGESTED MATERIALS
Crepe, satin, medium weight fabrics for dresses or suits.
ALSO NEEDED
• Lining;
• Fusible tape for thickening edges for the zipper;
• Interfacing;
• Bias fusible tape for the neckline;
• 40 cm (15,7”) long invisible zipper.
FABRIC REQUIREMENT (CM/IN)
for fabric width 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
|
International Size \ European size |
XXS-XS / 34-36 |
S-M / 38-40 |
L-XL / 42-44 |
2XL-3XL / 46-48 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, m | 2,30 | 2,35 | 2,40 | 2,50 |
| Main fabric, in | 90,6 | 92,5 | 94,5 | 98,4 |
| Lining, m | 0,45 | 0,47 | 0,50 | 0,50 |
| Lining, in | 17,7 | 18,5 | 19,7 | 19,7 |
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Pattern pieces already include 1 cm (3.8”) seam allowances for all edges except hem allowance. Garment hem allowance is 2 cm (3.4”).
SPECIFICATIONS
(№ – Name – Pieces’ quantity)
Main fabric:
1 – Front bodice – 1
2 – Front bodice side – 2
3 – Back bodice – 2
4 – Back bodice side – 2
5 – Sleeve – 2
6 – Sleeve head – 2
7 – Front skirt – 1 on fold
8 – Back skirt – 2
Lining
9 – Front bodice lining – 1 + Interfacing
10 – Front bodice side lining – 2 + Interfacing
11 – Back bodice lining – 2 + Interfacing
12 – Back bodice side lining – 2 + Interfacing
PATTERN PIECES
LAYOUT OF PARTS ON FABRIC
Width of fabric — 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
Size — 34 (XXS)
Size — 48 (XXXL)
INTERFACING
Fuse grain-reinforced bias tape to the lining’s neckline and armholes edges. Front bodice lining (9), front side lining (10), back bodice lining (11), back side lining (12). Attention! We recommend to interface the top’s pieces for light non-jersey fabrics if you want to archive a bustier effect. If you use jersey or thicker fabric, interfacing of neckline is enough.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
BODICE
1. Pin the front bodice piece (1) and front bodice side pieces (2) right sides together.
2. Stitch on the sewing machine and press seam allowances open.
3. Pin the back bodice piece (3) and back bodice side pieces (4) right sides together.
4. Stitch on the sewing machine and press seam allowances open.
5. Stitch together shoulder seams and press open.
6. Stitch together side seams and press open.
LINING
1. Repeat the same actions as for pieces from the main fabric.
2. Pin the front bodice lining piece (9) and front bodice side lining pieces (10) right sides together. Stitch on the sewing machine. Press seam allowances open.
3. Pin the back bodice lining piece (11) and back bodice side lining pieces (12) right sides together. Stitch on the sewing machine. Press seam allowances open.
4. Stitch together shoulder seams and side seams. Press.
5. Place the bodice outer layer and the lining right sides together. Align the edges. Stitch the neckline on the sewing machine. Seam allowance is 0.7 cm (0,27”).
6. Clip into rounding parts stopping 2 mm (0,08”) away from the seam line. Turn the right side out and understitch the seam allowances to the lining. Place the line of stitching 0.1 cm (0,039”) away from the original seam. Press.
SKIRT
1. Place the front skirt (7) and back skirt (8) pieces right sides together. Align the side edges. Pin and sew together. Overlock the seam allowances and press them towards the back side.
2. Overlock the hem allowance and press it towards the wrong side. Stitch. You can also go with a baby hem, especially for light fabrics.
3. Pin the skirt and the bodice right sides together. Align the side seams.
4. Stitch on the sewing machine. Overlock the seam allowance and press towards the skirt.
ZIPPER
1. Overlock the center back seam allowances.
2. Undo an invisible zipper. Pin, baste and stitch it to the one side of the back seam. Use special foot for sewing machine. Zip up and draw on the zipper gauge marks to mark the placement of the waist seam and the end of stitching. It is needed for symmetry.
3. Pin, baste and stitch another side of the zipper.
Attention! Please zip up again and check if everything is aligned.
4. Stitch the back seam on the sewing machine, starting from the lower edge and finishing by the end of the zipper. Press seam allowances open.
SLEEVES
1. Make pleats on the sleeve cap (5) according to the marks on the pattern.
2. Overlock the sleeve hem allowance and press it towards the wrong side.
3. Pin and stitch on the sewing machine the underarm seams. Press them towards the back. Finish the hemline with an invisible stitch.
4. With right sides facing together, place the sleeve into the armhole. Line up all the notches and pin into place at the underarm.
5. Baste aligning all the notches and distributing the gathers as evenly as possible. Stitch the sleeve into the armhole.
SLEEVE HEAD
1. Fold the sleeve head piece (6) in half, right side inside. Stitch together the short edges, turn the right side out and press flat. Make pleats and baste.
2. Attatch the sleeve head to the armhole, making the second line exactly where we stitched the sleeve.
3. Overlock the seam allowance and press from the wrong side.
4. Give the garment a final press.
