Madrid women's cargo pants - sewing tutorial
PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Stylish cargo pants, fastens with a fly front zip. Back pieces feature yokes and patch pockets. There are also pockets with flaps on the sides.
SUGGESTED MATERIALS
Denim fabrics or heavy weight cotton fabrics.
ALSO NEEDED
• Lining;
• Interfacing 30 cm / 11,8 in;
• 6 snaps;
• 2 buttons;
• Pant zipper (16 cm / 6,3 in).
FABRIC REQUIREMENT (CM/IN)
for fabric width 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
|
International Size \ European size |
XXS-XS / 34-36 |
S-M / 38-40 |
L-XL / 42-44 |
2XL-3XL / 46-48 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, cm | 160 | 165 | 215 | 220 |
| Main fabric, in | 63 | 65 | 84,6 | 86,6 |
| Lining, cm | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 |
| Lining, in | 11,8 | 11,8 | 11,8 | 11,8 |
Attention! If you are higher than 170 cm (66,9 in) or if you prefer wearing high heels, it is recommended to ad length to the garment and to correct it after the fitting. Also remember that cotton fabrics usually shrink after washing.
SPECIFICATIONS
(№ – Name – Pieces’ quantity)
Main fabric:
1 – Front piece – 2
2 – Back piece – 2
3 – Back yoke – 2
4 – Front leg slash – 2
5 – Pocket facing – 2 + interfacing
6 – Fly extension – 1 + interfacing
7 – Fly shield – 1
8 – Right waistband – 1 + interfacing
9 – Left waistband – 1 + interfacing
10 – Back waistband – 1 + interfacing
11 – Right waistband facing – 1 + interfacing
12 – Left waistband facing – 1 + interfacing
13 – Back waistband facing – 1 + interfacing
14 – Belt loops – 1
15 – Left pocket flap (top) – 1 + interfacing
16 – Left pocket flap (bottom) – 1 + interfacing
17 – Left patch pocket – 1
18 – Upper right flap (top) – 1 + interfacing
19 – Upper right flap (pocket) – 1 + interfacing
20 – Upper right patch pocket – 1
21 – Lower right flap (top) – 1 + interfacing
22 – Lower right flap (bottom) – 1 + interfacing
23 – Lower right patch pocket – 1
24 – Back patch pocket – 2
Lining
25 – Pocket bag – 2
Auxiliary pieces
26 – Fly topstitching guide – 1
PATTERN PIECES
LAYOUT OF PARTS ON FABRIC
Width of fabric — 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
Size — 34 (XXS)
Size — 48 (XXXL)
SEAM ALLOWENCES
Pattern pieces already include 1 cm (0,39”) seam allowances for all edges except hem allowance. Garment hem allowance is 2 cm (0,79”).
INTERFACING
Fly (6), right waistband (8), left waistband (9), back waistband (10), rght waistband facing (11), left waistband facing (12), back waistband facing (13), pocket facing (5), left pocket flap (top) (15), left pocket flap (bottom) (16), upper right flap (top) (18), upper right flap (bottom) (19), lower right flap (top) (21), lower right flap (bottom) (22).
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
1. Sew together back trousers pieces (2) and back yokes (3), overlock and press seam allowances towards the yoke.
2. Sew a second parallel line of topstitching on the yoke’s right side, place the line of stitching 0,5 cm (0,2”) away from the original seam.
BACK PATCH POCKETS
1. Overlock the upper edges of back pockets (24). Press seam allowances towards the wrong side.
2. Draw pocket lines on back pieces. Use lines on the pattern (2).
3. Pin the pockets to the back pieces and edgestitch into place (0,1 cm away from edges). Also you can make a topstitching 0,7 cm (0,3”) away from edges. Press.
HIP YOKE POCKETS
1. Overlock front piece slash (4) and pocket facing (5). Sew the slash onto one part of the pocket bag (25) and the facing onto another. Press along the fold line.
2. Pin pocket bags (25) right sides together with pocket opening edges of front (1) and stitch.
3. Trim allowances and press onto pocket pieces. Stitch allowances close to joining seam.
4. Fold the pocket bag, aligning its side edge line with the front piece (1) side edge line. Stitch the pocket bag, overlock seam allowance and press flat.
5. Pin, stitch and overlock side seams. Press seam allowances towards the back.
CARGO POCKETS
1. Overlock pockets’ pieces (17), (20), (23).
2. Fold pockets’ corners right side inside and stitch.
3. Press pockets’ upper edges seam allowances towards the wrong side and stitch.
4. Press other seam allowances towards the wrong side. Pin pockets to the pants’ side where indicated. Edgestitch into place.
5. Sew together tops (15), (18), (21) and bottoms (16), (19), (22) of the flaps. Trim the corners, turn them right sides out and press flat.
6. Topstitch the flaps 0,5 cm (0,2”) away from edges.
7. Pin flaps 1,5 cm (0,59”) above the pockets. Pin and stitch along the raw edge at the foot’s width. Press the flap downward and run a line of topstitching along the top edge (0,5 cm (0,2”) away from the seam).
8. Set snaps.
9. Overlock inner leg seams and back center seam edges.
10. Pin together, stitch and press flat.
ZIPPER FLY
1. Press fly seam allowances towards the wrong side. Make it along the center seam line for the right side and 0,3 cm (0,12”) away from the center seam line for the left side.
2. Overlock fly extention’s (6) rounded edge. Stitch it to the right front piece.
3. Stitch the zipper to the left front piece, placing the teeth of the zipper close to the fold. Tuck the upper end of the braid.
4. Fold the fly shield (7) in half lengthwise, right side inside. Stitch one of the short edges, turn right side out, finish the vertical edge (layers together).
5. Place the fly shield under the zipper’s left side and pin to the seam allowance. The fly shield’s allowance is higher then trousers’ upper edge. Edgestitch the left side (where the fold is). Pin the crotch seam, baste if needed.
6. Stitch zipper’s another end to the right front piece. Do not stitch the crotch seam at this stage. Remove pins from the crotch seam.
7. Trace fly’s stitch line on the right side of the trousers using fly topstitching guide (26).
8. Pin the fly shield to the left front piece, so that it can not be attached to the right piece during the topstitching. Topstitch along the traced stitch line finishing 0,3 cm (0,12”) before the crotch seam.
9. Unpin the fly shield. On the right side of the garment sew a 1 cm (0,39”) bar tack at the bottom of the topstitching where it meets center front. The fly shield will now be anchored.
10. Stitch the crotch seam using a regular zipper foot.
11. Press seam allowances open starting from the upper edge and finishing before the front crotch part. Then press seam allowances towards one side.
BELT LOOPS
1. Overlock one long edge of the belt loops (14). Press the unfinished end towards the wrong side. Then press the overlocked end over it. Stitch 2 lines right next to the edge of both ends.
2. Cut into 5 equal parts. Pin and stitch to the trousers’ upper edge where indicated.
WAISTBAND
1. Stitch together waistband’s facings (11), (12), (13) side seams.
2. Stitch together waistband’s (8), (9), (10) side seams.
3. Press seam allowances open.
4. Finish the bottom of the facing with overlock stitching.
5. Put the waistband and the facing right sides together. Pin and stitch two short sides and one long side. Turn the right way out and press.
6. Pin and stitch the raw end of the waistband to the waistline. One end of the waistband should protrude beyond the edge of the zipper. The left end is stitched to the fly shield (7).
7. Pin the waistband’s facing over the seam along the right side of the garment. Stitch in the ditch to secure.
8. Fold the top of the belt loops. Sew into place on the top of the waistband. Cut extra seam allowances.
9. Make a buttonhole.
10. Sew the button on.
HEMLINE
1. Overlock hem allowances, press towards the wrong side. Sew into place.
2. Give your trousers a final press.
