Kiwi women's dress sewing pattern - sewing tutorial
PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Midi dress with a semi-fitting cut, widened towards the bottom. The dress is seamed at the waist and fastens with an invisible zipper in the middle back seam. The bodice is lined with the main fabric.
SUGGESTED MATERIALS
Natural fabrics are perfect for sewing: linen, cotton.
ALSO NEEDED
• Fusible stay tape for zipper and waist cut — 2.00 m (2 ¼ yd);
• Invisible zipper — 35 cm (13 ¾’’);
• Bias cut fusible stay tape for neckline and armhole — 2.00 m (2 ¼ yd).
FABRIC REQUIREMENT (CM/IN)
for fabric width 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
International Size \ European size |
XXS-XS / 34-36 |
S-M / 38-40 |
L-XL / 42-44 |
2XL-3XL / 46-48 |
---|---|---|---|---|
Main fabric, m | 2,00 | 2,15 | 2,30 | 2,40 |
Main fabric, yd | 2 ¼ | 2 ⅜ | 2 ½ | 2 ⅝ |
When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5—10% more than required.
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Pattern pieces already include seam allowances.
Important! The width of the dress at the bottom is designed for a fabric width of 1.50 m (59,1’’).
SPECIFICATIONS
(№ – Name – Pieces’ quantity)
Main fabric:
1 – Front bodice with a fold – 1
2 – Back bodice- 2
3 – Front skirt with a fold – 1
4 – Back skirt – 2
5 – Front lining with a fold – 1
6 – Back lining – 2
TOTAL EASE ALLOWANCES
(in cm and in)
• Chest ease — 7 cm (2 ¼’);
• Waist ease — 2.5 cm (1⅛’’);
• Hips ease — 33 cm (13’’).
PATTERN PIECES
INTERFACING
Interface the allowances: front bodice (1) — the waist cut, back bodice (2) — fo the zipper and the waist cut, front bodice lining (5) and back bodice lining(6) — armhole and neckline.
LAYOUT OF PARTS ON FABRIC
Width of fabric — 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
Size — 34 (XXS)
Size — 48 (XXXL)
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
BODICE PREPARATION
1. Mark auxiliary lines for stitching the darts on the wrong side of the front bodice (1).
2. Sew the darts, matching the notches and stitching to the apex.
3. Press the chest darts down, and the waist darts towards the center.
4. Mark and sew waist darts on the wrong side of the back bodice (2). Press to the center.
5. Sew the shoulder and side seams of the front and back bodice, placing the pieces right sides inside. Press allowances.
DRESS BOTTOM
1. Overlock the middle cuts of the back skirt (4).
2. Sew the side seams of the front skirt (3) and back (4), placing the pieces right sides inside. Overlock seam allowances and press to the back.
3. Sew the bodice to the skirt, placing the pieces right sides inside. Press allowances onto the bodice.
4. Sew the middle seam along the back skirt from the notch of the end of the zipper to the bottom. Press allowances.
ZIPPER
1. Unzip the zipper and place it with the right side on the right side of the dress, stepping 1 cm (3/8’’) from the top. Stitch, zip and transfer the control marks to the second side of the zipper.
2. Unzip and stitch the other side of the zipper. Press.
Important! If you have a long zipper, you can cut it at the bottom, leaving a tail of 3 cm (1 ⅛’’) long, and secure the edge with a piece of tape from this zipper.
3. Stitch the end of the zipper to the middle seam allowance. Press.
BODICE LINING
1. Mark auxiliary stitching lines for the darts on the wrong side of the front bodice lining (5).
2. Sew the darts, matching the notches and stitching to the apex.
3. Press the chest darts down, and the waist darts towards the center.
4. Mark and sew waist darts on the wrong side of the back bodice lining (6). Press to the center.
5. Sew the shoulder and side seams of the bodice lining. Press allowances.
6. Overlock the bottom edge of the bodice lining.
ASSEMBLING
1. Stitch the bodice neckline with the bodice lining, placing the pieces right sides inside. Trim the allowances.
2. Stitch along the neck lining at 0.1 cm (1/16’’) from the previously made seam. Press the seam, forming an edging from the bodice parts.
3. Stitch the zipper along the back, placing the back bodice and lining pieces right sides inside, and stitch close to the zipper chain. Cut out corners, turn the right side out and press.
4. Stitch the armholes. Turn the bodice inside out, align the armholes and stitch first from the side seam to the shoulder seam in one direction, and then from the side seam to the shoulder seam in the other direction of the armhole.
5. Stitch along the bodice lining at 0.1 cm (1/16’’) from the previously made seam. Press the armholes, forming an edging from the bodice details.
6. Sew the bottom edge of the bodice lining to the seam of the bodice and skirt. Press.
7. Press the allowances along the bottom of the dress by 0.5 cm (3/16’’) and again by 0.5 cm
(3/16’’). Hem the bottom of the dress with a double hem seam. Press.
8. Give the dress a final press.